1964 Thunderbolt hood scoop
 

Its raised and teardrop, will be a Ford looking part also.
Perry:cool:

I would like to see what you are thinking about as far as a raised feature that will keep rain water out. The box that you mentioned from Home Depot was it built or a cardboard box?

427 roadster body style, lots of air under hood from radiator = fact. Rear (cowl vent) seems to just compounds the air under hood problem and causing more lift. The forward facing air hood scoop is nostalgic, at best.
Rain is something I encounter when trying to get around, not all the time but has happened many times over twenty two years. When I bought my first sports car back in 71. My uncle told me that is the kind of car that you make sure the water can drain back out. That is a fact, as I'm trying to position my legs to miss the water dripping in on my legs as I drive .
1 1/2" tall air cleaners has been a problem all that time. Last year had the air cleaner removed and my there is i big difference. I know that the traditional hood scoop was a add on that they used but doesn't work for me. I doubt it actually helped that much, back then. The engine air intake manifold that is being used on my car, was intended for a sedan with the engine angled down in the rear and a lot more hood clarence. I don't have any of that. So I have been thinking all the twenty two or more years that building a raised area on the hood that would bring the air intake above the original hood line is the only way to get the filtered air the intake it wants. I can't see a forward facing air scoop doing much but dumping water in on the ignition when the wet times cone along . Other than you guys here in the Club people do not know what is proper. I have been asked more than once "what kind of Corvett is that?'
Be it two taller air cleaner elements, or the metal air horns that connect to remote air fikplters i need more than 1 1/2' of room under the hood.

The Camaro ZL-1 cowl induction hoods seal to the special RPO ZL-2 air cleaner top and feed air to the carb.
The long raised scoop starting close to the front of the car added to the cowl effect.
The hood wasn’t used to cool the motor just get it cool air to breathe.
They do look cool too I gotta admit, my second ride was a 68 Camaro.

I finally have gotten back to my CR project. It took a while after trying to settle back into our house in Wisconsin. There was lots of deferred maintenance on the house after being (mostly) in Boston for 5 years.

My body shop took my car in last month. Luck for me, he just was given notice that his lease is not being renewed. He has become a friend the last few years. As a result, he is working on just my CR the last couple of months before he looks to either relocate or work for someone else.

But I am getting the "royal treatment" for my paintjob. I decided to go with a Viking Blue color. I never forgot the EM Cobra I looked at years ago at their facilities that was in Viking Blue (no stripes) with a tan interior.

Since my car had been purchased with a tan interior by the original owner, it just confirmed it as the color combo in my mind.

He is surprised as to how straight the fiberglass is with this 1st generation CR, but he is not happy with the door gaps or how many shims there are to get the door straight. So, off come the doors (they would have come off for painting anyway) and he will rework them. He even purchased a new set of sanding blocks for its curved shapes that he likes to use on fiberglass.

Normally, during the winter, he refinishes a bunch of the seadoos from a local boat rental shop here on the lake. So, he is used to working with fiberglass with lots of curves.

The extra leg room the CR doors allow will be a blessing when you get older and fat like me. Have you checked the hood clearance with the intake and air cleaners you plan on using? Did you see the video of them repainting the Shelby continuation roadster? 350+ hours.

The door mount trick is to cut the hinge mount piece loose from the cowl hoop and weld it back in after you get the door where you want it. Keep hinge and mount on door and tack it in.
DV has some posts about it, he came up with it.
Looking good that’s a lot of curves.

At 70 now (where did the time go since I purchased this car in 2014?), 6'2"and 215lbs, it is the reason I went with a CR in the 1st place.

The fiberglass is very thick on a Series 1 CR , they were also in the fiberglass boat business back then as well. And, it had an inner and outer skin with about a 5/8" gap between the two in the center of the hood. You could have stood on it, and it would not have flexed!

I cut away the inner skin up to the shaped edge which is the real stiffener for the hood. Then we glassed that up to the outer skin. The CR does not like the EFI system unless you use the SN95 EFI manifold, which is not very efficient.

I went to a bread box style upper intake manifold along with aftermarket elbows and a 75mm throttle body to be able to fit under the hood and it also pulls in the throttle body closer to the center of the motor with the EGR eliminator plate.

I was not concerned about losing a bit of torque with the other upgrades to the motor. It started as a 90 5.0 HO motor that had only a couple of thousand miles on it when it was removed from the totaled car.

I replaced the heads with alum TFS Twisted heads with a stage 2 porting/polishing. They also have double valve springs and forged roller rockers. The lower intake was extrude honed. It replaced the oil pump with an upgraded unit along with a beefier oil drive shaft and a Canton road race baffled oil pan. The headers have been ceramic coated inside and out. Added MSD dist & coil along with an upgraded water pump. Went with TFS extruded alum fuel rails and adjustable fuel pressure regulator as well as stainless braided fuel lines from the fuel tank to the fuel rails and AN6 fittings and lines at the motor with an external upgraded fuel pump and filter. I went with a set of 38lb fuel injectors (they may be too much, but I already had them) and a matched C&L 83mm MAF unit with a large K&N air filter.

I also upgraded to a T5-Z trans. The rear end is an 8.8 posi with 3.73 gears.

With the CR about 900lbs lighter than the Mustang, I think it will move out fine.


http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20392&thumb=1

And the 350 plus hours to paint is a bit over the top, IMHO. My uncle used to paint custom cars for hot rod shows in the SFO Bay Area back in the 60s, adn he had lots of 1st prizes for his specialty colors which were the candys and Metalic flake paints. He was especially know for Candy Apple Red paint. He had to hand tint the clear back in those days. And if you got a run or the shading got off, you sanded the whole car down and started over.

Yes, there is something quite different when you paint a car for the road vs for car shows. In fact, he quit doing it and did just insurance work because he could not charge enough to support his family on just custom work. Back then, people would not pay the outlandish prices for paint that they get today.

It turns out my paint guy has a nearby friend that is doing an alum bodies Cobra replica right now that had been hit in the rear. The other painter dropped by to see my car and commented that the alum car he is working on is anything but straight vs the CR. He said it keeps him up at night just thinking about having the alum bodied car in his shop.

The body shop applied the 1st coat of urethane primer for fiberglass, sanded and preped for 2nd primer coat.http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20778&thumb=1
We reworked the original hood scoop buy removing the 8" of added width (modified for previous supercharger now removed) and reinstalled with a 3 " added strip in the middle to clear the EFI system.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20392&thumb=1
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20777&thumb=1

James block sanded the entire car, carefully looking for imperfections and pin holes.

He then did another coat of the primer.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20776&thumb=1
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20779&thumb=1

I decided on Viking Blue 2 stage paint with no stripes.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20780&thumb=1

The car should see color this coming week!

Color on the car!

Did not get to see the car yet. James sent me this photo last night just to tease me.

Hope to get there this afternoon.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20781&thumb=1

I am happy with my choice of color.

Congrats Chicagowil, it now looks like a Cobra, very nice choice of color too. I remember the day going to the paint shop and seeing my CR 1 in BRG ;) Hope yours came out as well as mine did, Cheers Tom.

I like the colour choice ;)
The body is looking great!

Cheers,
Glen

Thanks guys. Alfa02- BRG was a close second for me! I think my 1st 5 out of 6 cars were a shade of BRG! XB-60, Seeing your build was the final push to go with Viking Blue.
"
Kind of funny, I was recently diagnosed with Dypytren's Contraction. It's common name is - wait for it- "Viking's disease"! People, mostly men, with strong Northwestern European blood are most prone to get this problem. But, hey, at 70, I can't expect to never have any health issues!

It causes your last one or two digits to curl into the palm due to permanently contracted tendon. Not a whole lot they can do that is a 100% cure. This and the Lotus 7 I am working on may be my last cars because it get more difficult to handle tools.

He knocked it out of the park! I got to see it today- still in the booth. The color looks even better in person. He has to color sand it & buff it yet. I am very pleased with the paint and really like the scoop.

The scoop is not like an original 427, but the whole car is more of a "tribute", and I always accepted that.

I have always enjoyed the story as to how the riveted scoop came to be. They had tried a new config for the motor intake and the hood would not clear. So, someone went down to the closes speed shop and grabbed a fiberglass scoop, cut a hole and riveted it in place.

Then, it somehow becomes an "engineered add".

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20784&thumb=1

The color seems to really enhance the curves, IMHO.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20783&thumb=1

CR Disease
 

Hey Dr. Chicagowill, a quick question on the Viking Disease, did it start with tingling in your pinky & ring fingers, and then they go numb?? I haven't noticed the curling yet. Maybe we should rename it the "CR Disease" anyone that has/had a Classic Roadster is prone to getting it :LOL: Cheers Tom.

It's Dupuytren's Contracture. My brother in law has it (he and my wife are mostly Swedish). John Elway also has it and was featured on some ads a while ago for a non-surgical treatment but don't hear about it any more.

Sorry, typo. Bill Nighy (was just nominated for an Oscar in movie "Living" in 2022) has it as well.

I think it might have. Maybe it came from curling all your fingers but the middle one too often? Just sayin!

Sometimes it's hard to tell the difference between Dupuytren's and "trigger finger" which I had and affected my ring finger and now my middle finger on the same hand. Steroids worked for a while on the ring finger but after the second time the hand dr did the surgery. She described it as "putting the rope back in the pulley. The middle finger has largely fixed itself (ie, the "trigger" part is reduced but I still can't lay my hand flat but there is no pain when making a fist so I have skipped the dr. so far. I've accepted the fact that like the engine in my 60's car that parts wear out and unfortunately, doctors haven't perfected a rebuild on the human body (yet).

My CR came home today! Very happy with the color.

Have to remount the hood hinge.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20800&thumb=1
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=20799&thumb=1

Now starts the reassembly. Also, the wheels have to go. I will get tires on my 5 pin knock off Cobra II wheels.