You are basically on the right path Doug.

• Water wetter really does work. It seems silly and it's been around forever—but it is for real.
  
• Your 160 to 180 t-stat is the right choice. A 175˚ to 180˚ water temperature will be good for power and longevity. A 180˚ water temp will put your oil temps very near the boiling point of water which some folks value to remove moisture from the crankcase.
  
• No input on t-stat manufacturers.
  
• Over 210 water temps begin to cause me worry. Detroit uses temperature as part of their secret sauce for emissions control. We don't have emission issues. Personally, I like 180˚ water temps.
  
• Your steps approach is the smart way home

Someting to think about in the cooling fan department, a Taurus made between 153 and 365 HP depending on trim and year. You make 2x the high end of that power range. You don't drive around at WOT all day long but neither did Taurus owners. The majority of the cars were typically used in a continuous proletariat transportation fashion at low to occasionlaly moderate throttle openings — i.e. 150 hp or less. The cooling requirements of their engines are dwarfed by yours — more fan maybe?

Almost forgot to mention again, the Delta-Pag fans are brushless which means for all intents and purposes, they are forever fans.

What part of Texas are you? The winters are very different in Galveston than in North Texas.

I think you have a couple of things going on? Ethylene Glycol doesn't move heat as well as water. 50/50 isn't needed in my part of heaven. If your car is garaged, I would not protect it for anything less than needed.

I have a neighbor who has a 427SO who's had problems with overheating for decades. I inherited a dump truck with an FE that will sit in traffic hours.

What part of Texas are you? The winters are very different in Galveston than in North Texas.

I think you have a couple of things going on? Ethylene Glycol doesn't move heat as well as water. 50/50 isn't needed in my part of heaven. If your car is garaged, I would not protect it for anything less than needed.

I have a neighbor who has a 427SO who's had problems with overheating for decades. I inherited a dump truck with an FE that will sit in traffic hours.

Blazing speed Internet?

Blazing speed Internet?

Houston area. I was thinking 50/50 might be better to raise the boiling point.

25% glycol and a water pump lubricant.

If the cooling system is configured properly you should be able to maintain a 180˚ coolant temperature almost anywhere you would likely go.

Antifreeze is more than just antifreeze today. There are lubricants and any number of other additives added to the product. Properly configured your cooling system should easily be able hold the engine temps to a 180˚ coolant temperature. If you want to have protection from boiling just raising the pressure on the radiator cap will do that.

I think your idea about taking the "steps approach" is the way to engage this puzzle. Do one thing at a time, wait to see what kind of results it produces. Based on what you see decide your next move. The everything at once solution set just guarantees you are going to be in the barrel longer than you need be.

An unsolicited perspective;

If the engine is overheating at idle it is talking to you. It could be lean, it could be a timing issue, it could be an air leak somewhere in the intake tract. Properly timed, with adequate fuel, an engine should not overheat at idle.

You need a 180 degree thermostat , and you then need a 210 degree fan switch.

I can go with the 180 degree thermostat, but the ERA shop manual specifies a 75C thermo switch in the lower radiator hose and that's what I've had for the last 16 years (and that converts to 167 degrees Fahrenheit). No overheating even when idling at long stoplights in 100 degree weather.

Why a 210 degree fan switch? If I understand correctly, this turns the fan on when the temp gets to 210 degrees, no? Why do I want it to get that hot before I try to cool it down?

Is the front body opening to the radiator sealed up so that air can’t get around the radiator???
The amount of air coming in the front of a Cobra body is way to much per our Magnehelic & Pitot tube readings and as the air comes in the front hole....it slows down in the area in front of the radiator so the air goes thru the radiator and cools the engine coolant....so to slow the water down with Water Wetter , we take a standard thermostat and remove the internal parts so its about a 1” hole and reinstall in the manifold.
A large motor with a long stroke will generate more heat and that is exactly what you have...the fans on the outside of the radiator don’t do much but block the air coming into the radiator shrouded area. The rear fan can help by pulling the air in when in a stopped position in traffic.
Then we lock the distributor vacuum advance out and set the full advance of 36* degrees in the motor....then we install a MSD Retarder on the ignition so that below 800 rpm the Retarder will back the timing off 25* degrees. Above 800 rpm’s the timing goes back up to 36* degrees, that way the engine is easy to start but once started it goes to full 36* degrees.
BTW we install the Spal 195* degree sending switch in the bottom radiator hose to kick the fan on when ever the return water gets to hot. All the fan relay needs is a ground to activate the relay to turn the fan on ...either thru the switch on the dash or the sender unit in the lower radiator hose.
Big motors make a lot of heat all of the time....natural characteristics and we’ve done a lot of testing this summer with air pressure in front of the radiator...behind the oil cooler and behind the radiator....but the front of the radiator has to be sealed up so no air gets by the radiator....

Morris said it a lot better than I did . Note that he`s using an orifice to slow the coolant flow down so it will allow everything in the cooling system to do its job .
I tried a 160* thermostat per Blair`s recommendation ( he did my engine also ) , but the oil temps were too low for me . The 180* works just fine . Where you are , you can probably get by with plain distilled water and water wetter .... no antifreeze . It will cool a little better . I run plain water year round here in SC with no problems .
I really like Morris` using the MSD retarder on the ignition and now have another project for this winter .
FWIW on your oil , Blair had me do the break-in on the VR1 , but switched me to Amsoil full synthetic after break-in . That`s the oil he had to run for the Engine Master`s contest ..... he said he was really impressed with the oil after the engine teardown .

What fan temp switch are you using.
Blas

I'm not sure, Blas.

I'm trying to get a thermostat ordered tonite so it's home when I get home to install it. Since I have a surge tank and not a thermostat housing, it seems like I need a "large diameter" thermostat. I want to get a 180 degree, that seems to be the majority consensus of you guys. Anyone have a brand/part number they can toss up here quick so I can get it on order? Everyone agree I need to drill a hole in the flange?

Thanks Bobcat. He told me about the Amsoil too for after break in.

I use the Stant 45478 thermostat (fits the Surge tank)
Thermostat gasket FelPro #35063

If the Fan switch is too low, it will run all the time.

Try to get a balanced thermostat, they really do make a difference. Cobra Valley carries them. By the way, Spal also makes 16" 3000CFM Fan, but I am not sure of the part number. Good luck!