ERA owners- Camshaft R and R
 

Guys,
I've got to replace my camshaft.:CRY: Is there anyone out there who has replaced the cam without pulling the engine?? Getting to it is not huge problem. I'm unsure if the cam will slide out as the frame cross member appears to possibly be in the way. If it was close to clearing the X-member I could loosen the motor mounts and jack(tip) the engine up a bit. I want to avoid pulling the radiator if I'm going to have to pull the engine to get the cam out. I already checked with Bob Putnam. He thinks it can be done but has never done it in the shop.
Thanks Guys, Steve D***ey

Steve:

There is a story of an ERA buildup that is linked to the ERA website. You can access it at:

www.erareplicas.com/dansommers/dan18.htm

The guy also lost a cam, and replaced it with engine in car. Hope it helps.

Bud:JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE

Bud Man
Thanks. I had already e-mailed him. Given that it had been 7 years his memory isn't 100% but he recalls being able to do it with the engine in the car. My concern is that it is an earlier car and the cross member may have been different. I recall reading that somewhere in ERA's production they changed and or added the cross member. As I look at my car it appears that the X-member is at the same height as the center line of the cam, hopefully I'm wrong. So.... I was hoping to find out if someone had done it more recently and what their experience was.
Thanks again, Steve

Steve Do yourself a favor and pull the motor. If you drop a tool on the fenders you could crack the paint. Save your BACK. After 27 years of wrenching cars I KNOW about this. If you have a cam problem you are going to want a clear look at the bearings. If they are hurt you are going to pull the motor anyway. Take the tunnel cover off and jack the motor up to clear the cross member. DONOT CRUSH THE OIL PAN!! Put a block of wood under it. Taking your time, if the motor is OK you can have it out of the car in 2 hours. It is easy to work on out side of the car. You can check the Clutch assembly and make sure it's ok. Just thinking outloud. Put cardboard on the back of the fan or radiator to protect it. I have seen a few holes in the radiator with this kind of work being done. Take your time. It's a weekend job. Good luck Rick Lake

I'm curious: Is the cam or a lifter (s) damaged similar to the case of the guy in the ERA buildup story? If so, aren't you concerned about bearing damage? Seems to me you'd at least want to pull the caps and check the bearing shells if there's been some crap circulating thru the motor, no?

Rick and Lowell
My problem is my distributor drive gear is wearing. Lobes/lifters are OK to the best of my knowledge. I've read on this forum several times of dist drive gears failing and some of the possible reasons, mismatched gears, high pressure pumps, etc. I have not yet read about what I believe lead to my failure. I was going to post after I had a better look at the cam but here goes...........
I'm using a stock 1965 dist with a magnetic trigger for my MSD box. It never occured to me to check the distance from the bottom face of the dist drive gear to the flange on the dist that seats against the block. It turns out I am 0.020" too long. So my theory is I clamped the dist down forcing(sandwiching) the bottom face of the dist drive gear against the block. This caused a tremendous amount of drag and resulted in the premature wear of my dist drive gear. I have since replaced the dist drive gear and pinned it at the correct dimension and verified that I have end play on the shaft after it is installed and clamped down. I am now wearing my new gear and believe this is occuring because the cam gear is worn as a result of my first escapade and thus my need to replace the cam. With the dist out, a strong light and a dental mirror, I can discern some wear on the cam. I suspect that when it is removed and I can get a good luck at it things will appear worse.
I'll post as I learn more.
Steve Dickey

Re: pulling cam with engine in car
 

Steve,
I just pulled my cam last week with the engine in the car. I'm stepping down a notch on the cam... Depending on what chassis # you have, its possible. One is more difficult than the other. I had to pull the radiator for sure, undo the motor mounts, and tilt the engine upwards. I wanted to see if it could be done. Next time, I would probably consider pulling the motor but I refused to pull my tunnel out this time. Good Luck.

Duane,
Thanks. Just the info I was looking for. I'm #606 so if I choose to go that way I know I can.
Steve

Just a quick question???
 

Where did you get the dental mirror??? Slide???:cool:

Spotter,
I've e-mailed you at both addresses I have and they both came back. Are you hiding?? Rumor has it you picked up a 12,000sf garage to build a GT40. Call or e-mail me. I'm glad you reminded me, I've got to get Slide's mirror back to him so he can go back to work!!!
Steve

Steve Dickey Hi Steve Where you able to fix your car? I Had a couple of thoughts on this. If the main shaft on our distributor is a pin through the gear, see if you can get a new main shaft and redrill it .025 higher on the shaft. I would see also if the gear is the right material, steel or bronze or iron? call the cam company. Ford motorsports sell all 3 type. Does your distributor have a seal on the base to keep oil in the motor? If you double up on the gasket and glue them together with hightack this will take up you .020 tightness. Hope this helps Rick Lake ps you didn't say how much cam wear was on the cam gear?

HI RICK,
I previously pinned the gear on the dist. shaft at the correct location and the gear continued to wear. So.... I decided to pull the engine and trans and check the gear on the cam. Sure enough it has some wear. I've had no time to play the last couple weeks so everything has been sitting waiting to go back together. Spent a little time today removing gasket material from mating surfaces- loads of fun.
Thanks for the thoughts, I appreciate it, Steve

RICK,
Here is a picture of the cam. Steve

RICK,
I had to shrink the file so much you can not see the wear. Oh well. Steve