Club Cobra - Trim Ring For Headers

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Trim Ring For Headers

I AM SURE I AM NOT THE ONLY PERSON THAT HAS THOUGHT OF A KOOL LIL' CHROME OR POLISHED STAINLESS TRIM RING OR BEZEL TO GO AROUND THE SIDEPIPES WHERE THEY GO THRU THE FENDER. I THINK IT WOULD ADD SOME LOOKS AS WELL AS COVER UP THE CUT EDGE OF THE FENDER WHERE THE PIPES EXIT.. HAS ANONE HAD THESE OR MADE THESE.. IS THERE A COMPANY THAT ALREADY MANUF.'S???? THANKS , HAVE A GOOD EVENING

Never thought of it.;)

Rick

I thought of that. I plan to make them myself out of 1/8 inch stainless and screw them on with stainless screws. I wonder if anyone makes a material that could fold out of door sill to cover pipes to prevent leg burns? Or maybe have Velco on them that would grab onto the carpet and hang down to cover pipe. Once you get in car, roll them up and stow them on the shelf behind the seat. Any inventers out there?

I also have considered that idea, as the cut out in my fenders was rendered a little less than perfect.

Havent experimented yet because I think the effect could be a little "cheesy". I was thinking something like an aluminum heat sheild maybe 3/4 of an inch.

you do it so i can see how it looks. :D

SOUNDS LIKE WE ALL HAVE THESAME IDEA, BUT HAVE NOT PUT IT TO FORM. I WAS THINKING SOMETHING THAT COULD BE STAMPED OR PUNCHED ONE PIECE "SQUARE" JUST SLIP IT OVER THE SIDEPIPE AS YOU PUTTING TOGATHER AND THEN SCREW IT TO THE FENDER. IT WOULD MOLD THE FIRST TIME YOU INSTALLED. HUH! YUH! UMM! AT LEAST I THINK THATS HOW IT WOULD WORK!!!! HA HA HA

Guys, that's a good idea! You could make 'em for under $20 and some effort, and you could sell 'em for $50 or so...unless every kit has a slightly different opening and/or fender curve.
Make 'em out of 1/8" aluminum: two u-shaped pieces 1/4" wide, one for the top and one for the bottom. Custom fit (bend) to match the side of the fender, polish them, line them up and mount on the car.

If you dont want screw or pop rivet heads exposed here is a nifty idea. Suggest items be made out of 22 gauge stainless, have it lazer cut if you can, very neat and clean. They can also put the correct size holes in it too. Then bend to fit your particular car. Mark & drill the car body using perhaps 4 or 5 8-32 stainless machine screws keeping the holes up on the "flatter" part of the body. So the screws go straight into the side of the body keeping the screws as parallel as possible. Then (here's the trick and one of the reasons for using stainless in lieu of aluminum) thread the holes to accept the machine screws and run the heads down flush. Flip them over and carefully "silver solder" the screws into the metal use very little solder and allow it to wick into the screw threads in the metal "horseshoe". Then carefully grind off the heads leaving studs on the back of the "horseshoe". Metal finish the "horseshoe" and you will not be able to see how it is attached when installed because the studs will not be visable, and the stainless will not discolor with age as aluminum will.
Details........

Rick

I dont know about these...would have to see 'em on a Cobra to be sure...Rick, you DO have a good idea about hiding the heads!

i am glad that i was able to open up everyones minds and get you lazy !@%$*&*&^%$ from in front of the tv watching magnum p.i reruns. ha! ha! ha! just kidding!!!! i almost positive i am gonna try some way. Rick, i like your idea about the studs. onc e i have a finished product i'll take a shot and post for all to grade and pick-on...... also i took everybodys slam dunks on the caps'' i never knew it made such a big difference. i'll keep on writing or i guess that it would be typing in small font.. have a great evening guys...