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My SPF has rubber motor mounts and will eventually snap the back sidepipe mount IF its solid. Well, its snapped it 3 times. I'm agree that if you have rubber motor mounts, you have to have some give (i.e. rubber mounts) on the pipes.
My lesson is learned. Now to get this welded.... |
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We custom built our exhaust. I used 3/4" and 1/2" box tubing. welded a 1" long piece of 3/4" box to a 1" x 1" x 1/8" pad that was formed to the side pipe. This gave me a large contact patch to weld to the 18 guage steel of the side pipe. Then another 6" long piece of 3/4" box was welded to the chassis. We then took a piece of the 1/2" box tube slid it into each of the 3/4" box tube pieces and bolted to the chassis side only (there is slop to allow movement). this allows it to flex by twisting as the engine torks and also in and out as the pipes heat and cool. We thought about replacing the 1/2" box with round stock to allow more torsional twist but it seems to be working well for now.
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A Ratcheting Nylon Tie Down Mounted On The Drivers Side From A High Point On The Engine Down To An Eye-bolt In The Frame Solves The Issue.
To See This In Real World Use Look At Any Turbo '87 Buick Regal Gnx. I Have Seen 2 Cobras Using A Similar Strap To Control The Engine Torque Lifting. It Saves The Headers And And Mounts, They Got The Idea From Buick. Hope This Helps,,,,,,,,b. Smith |
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