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-   -   Wire Looms for Cobra Valve Covers (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-cobra-talk/41872-wire-looms-cobra-valve-covers.html)

Ken Wilson 05-27-2003 07:43 PM

Wire Looms for Cobra Valve Covers
 
I've got cobra valve covers that have the wire loom support riveted on the top. My problem is that I can't find the wire looms to fit them. Does anyone have an idea where I can find some?

Thanks for your help.

Ken Wilson

Rick Parker 05-27-2003 07:53 PM

Check with the Mustang restoration shops or Cobra Restorers in Ga. These were used on all the 289 engines too. Maybe Finishline has them too. About $3.00 -$4.00 each.


Rick

Ken Wilson 05-27-2003 08:10 PM

Thanks Rick for the quick reply.

Ken

Double Venom 05-27-2003 08:39 PM

Tony Branden has them. We just ordered a set for "Jenny's FIA car! :) Problem is, they only fit the OEM skinny plug wires!

DV.. It IS cookie time!

Dior55 05-27-2003 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Double Venom


Tony Branden has them. We just ordered a set for "Jenny's FIA car! :) Problem is, they only fit the OEM skinny plug wires!

DV.. It IS cookie time!

I bought these from Branda as well, and I had the MSG 9.5 mm wires! No problem though. These looms are soft plastic, so I just put an appropriate sized drill bit in my drill press and carefully "hogged" out the openings so they will accomodate larger ignition wires. Put the loom on a block of wood to make the drilling easier and more accurate. It's a PITA, but if you go slow, no one will know you did it and they work beautifully.

Tom Kirkham 05-27-2003 09:57 PM

One of the late model mustangs I think around 1987 used 8 mm wires and the SAME style hold down on the valve cover. If you find the right one they are perfect for 8 mm wire. Oh you get them at the Ford dealer

Jamo 05-28-2003 10:44 AM

Ken

Here's a different idea by my engine builder, Joe Boghosian, likes to use.

He takes a clear plastic block and drills out channels for the wires that are bigger than they need to be, so that the wires rest in them rather than being pinched. He then drills out a groove around the entire outside edge to hold a zip tie to hold the wires in. That way, the wires are never pinched, but are held securely by the zip tie--which are easily replaceable.

Obviously, you can use any color plastic/zip tie. The benefit is not pinching the wires.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...37dsc01239.jpg

Roscoe 05-28-2003 10:58 AM

I was thinking of grinding off the heads on the rivets and taking the bracket off completely.

Roscoe

Rick Parker 05-28-2003 11:46 AM

Jamo:

How are the blocks then attached to the valve cover, is there a slot machined in the block for the tab to fit into?



Rick

Jamo 05-28-2003 11:49 AM

Rick

Riveted right onto the stand that's on the cover.

Jamo 05-28-2003 12:04 PM

Here's a quick closeup... The upright on the stand is simply laying against the rear of the block, with the rivets going thru.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...37dsc01312.jpg

Rick Parker 05-28-2003 07:34 PM

Thanks for the picture

Rick

Ken Wilson 05-29-2003 02:11 PM

Thanks for the great information guys.

Ken

delrossa 06-15-2003 09:21 PM

You can remove the valve cover tab by taking a die grinder and grinding a slot in the rivet. Taking a screw driver with a good bit you can back the rivets out. I tapped the holes and installed stainless allen head screws. They look good. I ran the wires down the front and along the bottom of the valve cover. The choice is yours.


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