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slip fit exhaust pipes?
For those of you that have "slip fit" exhaust pipe to header, what is the best way to seal them. I have a Shell Valley that is days from its first voyage around the Neighborhood and i still need to seal the connection. any suggestions?
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I used the copper RTV with good success, except I must have skimped in one area because I have a small leak.Be generous with the stuff. chuck
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I used some kind of exhaust sealer in a tube that I bought at a Napa store. I think it was made by Walker. Very thick, black and gooey - almost like tar. I'm not happy with the results though. I have an exhaust leak on one side that results in a backfire on that side when I decelerate. I'm looking to redo that side so I'll be interested to hear if anyone has found something that works well.
Chris |
I used a sealer, made by permatex I think, and it worked pretty well. No leaks so far. When I get home tonight I'll check it and post the name.
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If your slip fit is fairly tight and the joint(s) is retained with tabs and bolt or spring, no sealer should be required. The pipe expansion from heat on the inside pipe should ensure a good seal.
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Slip Fit Pipes
I used Copper RTV and so far so good. I have an A&C Kit and the headers were 1-3/4" OD and the sidepipes were 2" ID. I had reducers welded into the side pipes and tabs welded onto both the sidepipes and headers at diagonally opposing pipes on each side. The slip fit was very tight and after bolting the tabs together I just ran a bead of the Copper around the joint and forced it into the joint with my finger.
Below are two pics of the setup before I assembled them. Good Luck, Tony http://home.hvc.rr.com/tonymadrid/Pipe%20setup.JPG http://home.hvc.rr.com/tonymadrid/Pipe%20setup%202.JPG |
The slip fit was very close on my set and I did not use any form of sealant. Do not recognize any problems from doing it this way. No backfiring or anything uncommon. After a while there is a buildup of exhaust soot around the coupling area. 7600 miles on it this way.
Jim |
By the way A & C uses pipes and headers from Shell Valley.
I like the little bolt tabs Tony did. I basically used #8 sheet metal screws, (1) in each tube at a point where I could get to them after they were in. Which ever way you go make sure you have fitted the side pipes on the car with the body in place to get at least 3/4" to 1" clearance to the side of the body. You may have to jockey the pipes a bit to make them even. Good Luck. Jim |
Slip Fits
The fit was very tight and on one side I had to use a tailpipe expander to get the pipes to fit and then had to cover the sidepipes with a towel and tapped the two pieces together with a rubber mallet.
Some guys just have the sidepipes welded onto the headers but I wanted to be able to separate them if the need ever arises. However, the fit is so tight and after some mileage is put on the car there will be carbon buildup that I think it will be an adventure trying to separate them. |
Thanks for the replies everyone... I have a good idea what I'm gonna do now.
Red |
Mine are tight
So no sealant... the only downside as noted above is a small amont of soot that you need to clean now and then. But you have to clean sidepipes regularly anywho... I clean mine up with 2000 grit sandpaper and then turtle wax 'em %/
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1 Attachment(s)
Red,
One last note: The purpose of slip-fit exhaust joints as used in aircraft and race cars is to eliminate the need for gaskets or sealer. As I stated previously, a properly fitting slip-fit joint will seal itself. As the heated inner pipe, which is hotter than the outer, expands it creates a very tight joint. Yes, it may spit a little at first, but will seal tightly when at operating temp. See the photo of the G7A/GT40 Mk IV CanAm car crossover snake-type pipes. These were very exotic pipes, having been fabricated from titanium. But the slip fit did the sealing. Note bolted tabs at joints. |
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