Mocal Oil Thermostat
 

Is anyone using a Mocal OT-2 Oil Thermostat (4 -10 male AN fittings) in the oil cooler system & lines and what are your opinions of this item. Does it allow the oil to come up to temp and are there any undo restrictions????

Thanks in advance

Rick

Rick,
Not quite the same thing but I have the Mocal SPT-1 thermostatic SANDWICH adapter on my SO, and am having no luck getting oil up to temp. Bought it from Racers Wholesale and they could only contact B.A.T. in Fla. [US dist.] to find out there's a certain amount of "bleed" past the plunger which must be keeping my temp. from rising to the open point on all but warm days. I wrote a thread about it here months back but got no real fix for problem. Racers said they would replace if it was found defective. Hope your design is not subject to same problem. Pain n a$$ to tear down and lay-up car only to find it's "not defective".
Hope the above leads get you an answer to your question.

As pictured below you can see I have one of those thermostats. I've since re-plumbed and removed the check valve and that solinoid valve from the accusump. The accusump now runs directly into the engine. The therm is still there and opens at 180 deg to the cooler. Works fine for me and never a problem.

http://www.priveye.com/dls/thermostat.jpg

Roscoe

I've elected to go with the Canton thermostat which opens at 210 degrees since the oil needs to be hot enough to outgas the junk that mixes with it.
There are several threads in the recent past about oil temps and thermostats that a search should turn up.
The Canton unit is expensive (about $170 list minus a Club Cobra discount if you mention it) but it's a pretty impressive looking unit if nothing else.
DonC

Don:
Where did you get that Canton thermostat (which dealer)? Is it a sandwich type and does it plumb in with AN fittings?

Thanks guys, maybe I should mount a Barbque under the pan???

That'll get the temps up!!!!

Rick

Art:
Go to Canton Racing's web site (cantonracingproducts.com I think) and look up the thermostat. It plumbs with 1 1/16 -12 to -8, -10 and -12 AN fittings that are about $24 a pair. The unit takes 4 of them. T-Stat price is about $172 before Club Cobra discount (10%). Unit mounts between the block and the cooler and bypasses the cooler until temp is reached. Line in and out from the block and in and out from the cooler.
On the expensive side but an impressive looking unit.
DonC

Here's the link to the canton-stat

http://cantonracingproducts.com/oil_...ermostats.html


Don, have you installed it yet? If so, how did you plumb it?

I, too, use the mocal sandwich take-off plate with built in thermostat - works fine, no bleed until oil is close to temp, but....

I had to do a fair bit of work on that thing to remove obstructions to the flow of oil. In particular I removed metal from the area where the take-off threads run into the body - this was seriously restricted as supplied.
Also worked around and opened up the area where the themostat "valve" works - this again gave only a tiny opening for the oil to flow through when the 'stat was wide open. You have to sit and look at the thing for a while to get the sense of where the oil is flowing under different temperature conditions to do this properly, and ensure you do not remove metal where it could affect the operation of the 'stat.

I view the "waxstat" itself as a renewable item - it definitely works less well with age for some reason. (maybe I cooked mine on the track one day - oil got plenty hot when the "red mist" came up!!)

I would take the same approach with the OT-2 oil 'stat - look at the oil passages and work on them a touch before using it. You can do without additional restrictions in the oil path in the cooler run anyway. Lastly, I would recommend -12 lines and fittings, again to reduce flow restriction - that is 3/4" ID lines.

Oh, and of course, if you take a die grinder to any part of your oiling system - clean, clean, and clean again before use. Sorry if this is teaching folks to suck eggs, but I saw a perfectly fine 410 BB ruined by honing grit once (no, it was not mine).

HTH

WIlf

Chaplin:
The unit won't be installed until ERA gets the engine in the car. I'm not going to be using the remote filter but the standard sandwich filter mount provided by them.
The Tstat is designed to be mounted between the oil cooler and the filter housing or adapter plate on the engine if using a remote filter. The unit has 4 ports and uses an O ringed adapter in each of them to accomodate the attachment of the lines, one each in and out for the oil cooler and one each in and out for the lines coming out of the engine. The adapters can be ordered with -8, -10 or -12 fittings for the lines. Oil from the engine is routed through the Tstat housing and back into the engine until the temperature reaches 210-215 degrees when the Tstat opens and allows oil from the cooler to connect with the system. Once the oil temp drops below the 210-215 mark the Tstat closes again until the oil reaches the appropriate temp again then the whole sequence starts again.
DonC

Okay, I think I know the answer, but is there a "waxstat" element that has a higher opening temp available for the Mocal unit? My oil temps even in the South Texas summer seem too low (185 is the highest I've seen it).

Ken - how are you measuring your oil temp? If it is via your dash guage then be prepared to accept that the guage can be up to 20% out.

If you want a proper check on your oil temps, use an electronic thermocouple-type thermometer, and clamp the thermocouple tip (cable tie works OK) onto the "out" pipe to your cooler, then the "in" pipe from the cooler in turn. Then you will have proper readings of the oil temps on both flow and return lines on the cooler.

If you want to get really swanky, there are electronic meters out there where you can plug in two or more thermocouples - and switch between them or show the delta between them.

I did this, and now realise that my (mechanical) dash guage reads 10 degrees C low. Once you know the correction factor, all OK, but I would not start to even try to modify the oil cooling system on my car without proper temp measurements first.

HTH

Wilf, thanks for reminding me of the obvious, check the facts first! You're right, I need to verify the gage accuracy before fixing things that aren't broken. Mystandard SW mechanical gage readsoil pan temperature. I will check the temps at the cooler, remote filter head, filter, lines and the pan using a laser temp sensor to confirm what I've got. Thanks again.