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What Bellhousings Are There For SBF W/ Toploaders?
Are there any good ones that don't rely dial-indicating? Seems like McCleod and Lakewood both recommend it.....Are there any other options?
I've had a Lakewood, and it came in within spec, but I'm gonna have to buy another one and I don't wanna have to play the odds.... |
Regardless of what you use, you will need to check the bellhousing alignment for straightness. There is simply no way around this. I am not aware--outside of an original Ford bellhousing which is not "scatterproof"-- of any other bellhousing manufacturer. You simply need to break out the dial indicators and go to work. If you are looking for the procedure as to how to do this, email me and I will send them to you.
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SCATTERSHIELD!!!!
blykins,
With a high revver like a 351W to 425ci, you had better heed CALs comment on a scattersheild and not even think of a stock FORD item. Arrrrgggghhhh, I shudder at the 7000rpm thought in second gear without one. grumpy |
Grumpy:
Sort of like pulling the pin on a grenade inside your bellhousing. Incredibly lethal if things come apart. |
Like I said, I've done it before....no problem....but now the engine is in the car and it's just gonna be a big pain in the you-know-what.....
Grumpy, my engine dyno'd max hp at 5400...no reason to take it above 6k. Thanks for your helps guys. |
Blykins:
One of the signs that the bellhousing hasn't been aligned properly will be the grinding in reverse when shifted to that position at idle. Essentially, the pilot of the input shaft is cocked in the flywheel and is not freewheeling. That, in turn, will do a major job on your input bearing over time, and probably take it out, as well as the cluster gear if you are not careful. |
I have checked six scattershields and none of them were ok as is, they all needed alignment. In addition I had a clutch explode last summer at only 2500rpm and it's amazing how much damage was done to the Lakewood bellhousing. I shudder to think of what would have happened without one.
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BELLHOUSING
HOW DO YOU ALIGNMENT A BELLHOUSING? WHERE DO YOU PUT THE DIAL INDICATOR?:confused:
THANKS |
Hi Blykins,
I'd use either the McLeod or Lakewood steel bellhousing. These cars we have don't really have anything between the clutch and your foot... I sell both and can machine the bottom off for clearance and also convert to an external slave / billet fork assembly to eliminate the need for a hydraulic throw out bearing. |
Dwight,
You have to remove the pressure plate and clutch disc...mount the dial indicator base on the flywheel, then position the dial indicator so that it's in the plane of the transmission mating surface on the bellhousing. Basically you're turning the dial indicator around the bellhousing hole that your input shaft will go through. As you turn the engine over, the dial indicator will rotate about the crankshaft axis and you read the run-out....then divide by 2. I think Lakewood allows .005" total run-out. If it's more, then you have to buy the stupid dowel kit to align it better. Fortunately, the last one I had came in at .005". I bet I won't be as lucky this time. On a different note, why would I have to use a hydraulic TOB? Why can't I just use a regular cable setup? |
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