Engine Break - In
 

Just finished a 427 stroker (3.98) with edelbrock heads, hydraulic cam (230/234, .560/.565), roller rockers. How should I break in the engine prior to going all - out? I currently have 300 miles on it after changing the oil / tightening the heads after 30 minutes. I have varied the rpm's up to 3500 until now. Anxious. Thanks for any advice!

Shelby;

With a hydraulic cam,you need to keep the rpms up around 1800 to 2000 for the first 20 to 30 minutes of running,since you now have 300 or so miles ,I guess you are long past that point.....

The way I did my 351-W and this way was recommended by most engine builders I know was,intial run,20 minutes at 1800 rpms,shut off,let things cool off for a few minutes,change oil and filter,cut open filter,look for debris,parts,shiny fine metal,etc.etc,start back up,reset timing,carb,then I ran it for the first 300 or so miles not exceeding 4000 rpms (my own personal limit),changed oil and filter again,cut open filter,check for debris,metal,etc.etc,. Everything looked good,run it like you want to (I limit mine to 6000rpms).... Now have about 21,000 miles,30 to 40 1/4 passes,300 or so miles at "open track" events flogging it pretty good and the motor has run flawlessly,does not use oil,nor does it leak any oil from anywhere,thank God..... With a little luck it should last for a long time to come..... Using top notch parts does not hurt either especially if you plan to do some performance driving......

David

Break In
 

It's ready to go

David and 4027:
Thanks! Immediately after build, I ran it for 30 min @ 2000 rpm, changed oil/ checked filter. Then ran 300 miles @ max of 3500 rpm. Sounds like I am right on track - so to speak. Any other comments welcome. Plan on changing oil/filter tomorrow. By the way, I have been running 20W50 natural oil - should I change to synthetic now?
Thanks.

Oil
 

I am sure you are going to change your oil very often, I would stay natural 20w50. A great thing to do if you don't mind the extra time would be to attach a Moroso oil pan heater pad to the pan and heat the oil before you start it. It will save you bearings.

4027 - Thanks, amd please elaberate regarding the oil pan heater. My carb is a DaVinci prepared Holley 750 and has NO choke. I therefor have to rev the engine immediately upon starting it. Doesn't seem to good. Perhaps this is why there is this thing called a pre-oiler, although I have never seen one, nor ever known anyone to use one. Any advice here?
Thanks for your help.

Heater
 

Check your local speed shop or summit racing. Moroso makes a few different styles that adhere to the bottom of the oil pan with high temp silicone. They have a regular electrical cord that you can tuck and mount under the car. You just plug it into the wall with an extension cord for 10-15 minutes to get the oil temp up. It is really easy. The pre oil deal is more complicated for non dry sump cars. There is an accusump system that you could use which pressurizes the system on start up helping the issue and you can always pull the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill. I would only do that if the car has been sitting for more than 6 months. It's a pain in the a$$...Good luck

Thanks 4027!

Shelby;

My carb has no choke either,what I do is after starting the car (it starts on the first crank),I hold the rpms at around 1200 till oil pressure comes up,(it comes up reaalll fast,luckily)after about thirty seconds or so,I put it in gear (forward or reverse,does not matter) and let off the clutch and roll the car a car length or two,making it pull some vacum,after that I can let it sit there and idle till it is fully warmed up before taking off....

This little trick works on my car well and I do not have to sit in it and hold the pedal to keep it going.... Usually I go in the house and get ready to go were ever I'm going,letting it idle for 3 to 5 minutes sometimes more depending on the outside temp, before leaving.... I live out of town a couple of miles and only about 200 yards off the main highway,so after leaving in 200 yards I've got to get up to speed or get run over and I do not like revving up a cold motor,especailly with 9 quarts of cold oil in the pan....

David

This may not be as good as a pre-oiler, but it is a lot simpler. I installed a starter button under the dash (out of sight) to turn over the engine with no spark. When I see oil pressure I stop and use the key to fire it right up. The engine was broken in on a dyno; not cheap, but effective. I'm thinking of converting to synthetic after my first oil change (20-50). Anyone know of any advantages of sticking with conventional oil? (Besides the cost.) Rich

badrich;

Just my opinion,if you plan to do any kind of racing,go with synthetic,if you have a street driver/cruiser, stay with conventional....

I use synthetic in my car now that I mostly do open track events.... Normal is anywhere from 10 to 15 laps on a road course from 1.3 to 2 miles long,lap times as low as 1:29 to 2:00 minutes,so an average session is around 15 to 20 minutes running mostly in the 3500 to 5500 rpm range,engine builds a lot of heat and I find the synthetic oil does a better job of holding up in extreme heat and racing conditions..... For a driver/cruiser synthetic is not needed and conventional is fine....

Later this year when my project car (65 Mustang Coupe) for racing only is built and running my 65 Fastback will not see anymore track time and I'll go back to conventional oil in it....

David

David if you turn all 4 of your idle mixture screws out 1/4 turn from their current setting, the warm up problem should disapear. The standard adjustment is 1 1/2 turns out on all four. Make sure that they all are finally adjusted out the same for better performance. Dan