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Nice converter program, just plug in ratios, tire size, etc and it will give you the theoretical numbers.
http://www.368s.com/tools_rpm.phtml DonC |
Re: whats ye'alls opinion?
Quote:
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NOW THATS WHAT IM TALKIN BOUT!!!!
tHANKS DonC, That is exactly what I was needing!
Gary :D :3DSMILE: |
Max,
I am running 3:27 gears in my 8.8 rear end with the .8 split in my 5th gear and at 70 MPH I tach 1900. I wish I had gone to the .6 split in the transmission but I like the rest. With the aeredynamics of my brick, I can't get anywhere near the power band of the engine in 5th. Ron :o |
3:31 Jag with Auburn Unit, Close Ratio Toploader, Big Input and Output Shaft. 427 with approx 500 FT LBS Torque.
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3.08:1
With 7600 RPM redline and well over 500 rwhp this thin g has a BIG top end. Also never fails to spin tires when I want... |
maxvelo, maybe you need a higher stall speed torque converter in your tranny. A higher stall speed will let your engine rev up higher before locking up, letting the engine closer to its rpm range. Do you know the stall speed your converter is rated at? Are you running a RV/econo torque converter?
Try to find somebody who has a lot of experience drag racing automatics, pro-street style, and let them ride in/drive your car to get their opinion whether you need gears or something else. |
Maxvelo Gary with the C6 and wanting to cruise the highway I would go with a 3.00 ratio. the 288 gears is not as strong as the 307-331 gears. I have a 3.31 jag with a Detroit locker in my car. I have both a 5spd G-force for racing and a nash 6spd for road cruising. The tires are 335-17 pilots. With the auto in your car, I would go with the 3.07s I think you will get the best of both worlds, If you are 1/4 mile racing 3.73 with slicks. My thoughts Rick Lake
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I am running 3:31 rear gears in a Dana Jaguar Rear End coupled to a close ration Toploader.
This combo works great except in a parking lot and you are trying to go real S L O W .... I get a kind of lurching or pulsing slow roll with those long gears. Most others with this set up get the same characteristic. I have a racing clutch, so it is either IN or OUT, there is no half way or inbetween if you know what I mean. Feathering the clutch is out of the question. This lends to the pulse at very low speed, IMHO. Perhaps a "normal" clutch which you could feather or slip would eliminate this. This is a nice gear setup for high speeds. I stay mostly in first or second gear in town. Couple these gears with a nice torque laden engine and it is very enjoyable to drive. |
Final drive ratio
Interesting reading,
I agree with the earlier posts on gearing your car to suit the usage and cruising speed, all a compromise: Firstly if you cruise at 60-70mph (sensible speed to avoid the cops) and in my case will be running a 393 stroker, 3.27 ratio on 26.5" tires that gives me 2500rpm at 60, 3000 at 72. I also have a 3.08 ratio = 2500 at 64mph, 3000 at 77mph. Regarding track use the main straight where I race is around 150+mph, so my machine should be floating around 6200 at 150mph. I am going to run a Jerico, so wont bother with a 5 speed, but it would be handy if you were doing high speeds, on some nice back roads, to save the engine, if you were racing a ricer or something! |
Based on the "math" I have a 3.1 rear ratio with a top loader. 1st is good for 60 mph easy! Around town stop and go is a pain in the butt.
However, for drag racing and as much power as I've got it makes sense. Many guys don't use 1st or short shift because the gearing is TO low and you fry the tires to easy. 2800 rpm at 70 with 26.5 BIG letter Goodyears. I DO need a clutch, it will slip at a launch of 3000 rpm. |
3.0:1 works for me. I'm running a Glide and even with the tall 1.76:1 first gear ratio, I can't use WOT in low gear. I'm around 2500rpm @ 60mph.
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