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Does this look weird to you?
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Guys, this is a rear shot of my passenger side rear brake setup...this is a Ford Racing brake kit....look where the bleeder is on the caliper...does it matter that it's on the side and down this low? I always thought calipers had the bleeder screws pointing straight up....
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I don't know anything about Ford Racing brake kits, but I do know that the bleeder has to be at the top in order to get any pedal worthy of pushing the piston(s).
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I think you need to swap sides or do I see another boss where the bleeder can be screwed into
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That aint right!!! Bleeder MUST be at the top, racing brakes regular brakes whatever, laws of physics don't change!
Ernie |
I agree that you may have the caliper on the wrong side.
The bleeder doesnt need to point up but it must be in the top of the chamber behind the piston. |
Yup, what they said is right.
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Well crap. You know what a chore it is to swap sides with this stuff?
I think I have put the emergency brake backing plates on the wrong sides too...If so, I think I'm gonna kill myself, because it is a chore to swap these things...you gotta pull the axles and everything. Stupid 9" Ford. Let me ask you guys something else....If the calipers "sat" down on the bottom side of the rotor, would it make any difference? I'll post a picture of mine, and a picture of someone else's...tell me if I should bother changing everything over, or if my calipers would work fine in the position they are (but I still have to swap them side to side). |
Mine....
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Mine...
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Here's what it should look like...
So apparently I've messed up with even putting the backing plates on. I did this like 7 months ago....I can't believe I haven't caught it until now. Here's my question...could I get away with just swapping calipers from side to side, or is it imperative that they need to be moved upward like this other picture shows? I really dont think it would matter which way they sit...but that's me. If I do have to swap backing plates, I'll have to pull axles and the whole nine yards...the rearend is full of grease and everything. |
Blyknis,
Better bite the bullet and fix it now. By swaping the calipers, e-brake and back plates you'll have the caliper at the 10 o'clock position and less chance of an air pocket when you bleed the brakes. I can't tell you how many things I did over on my build (3 times for the fuel lines!). It's a learning process we all go through. |
I wonder how bad it would be though....there's really not that much difference once you get down and look at it...I do agree that I need to swap calipers....but swapping backing plates isn't worth the amount of pain and anguish that has to go into it. The E-brake will work fine...and I don't forsee any other problems....considering the calipers have the bleed screw on the side instead of on the top anyway, would it really be necessary to do all that work just to move the calipers up 2 inches?
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Hmmm,,,,,, That is an odd position for the caliper all right. I've NEVER seen one like that. Bleeding will still be a problem because the caliper bleed hole is lower than the brake line feeding it. It sure don't feel right to me. I sympathize with having to move the backing plate, pull the axles etc. but if it was me, I would.
Ernie |
Well, I did it....It didn't take me as long as what I thought...I was just dreading doing it. I had just setup a 4.10 gearset in a guy's Mustang GT last week, and I just didn't wanna be pulling axles and taking brakes off again.
But I have a big relief now that it's fixed and fixed right...The calipers and bleed screws are up where they are supposed to be. If you guys with 8.8's and 9's are looking for a new rear brake setup....this is a pretty nice one. Extremely easy to change pads...Just make sure you put the backing plates and calipers on the right side when you install them. :-) Just wasn't paying attention that day.... |
blykins - as long as the bleeds are straight up it don't matter about the position on the rotor. Unless the pads (and calipers) are directional of course. Some of the 6 and 8 piston caliper stuff out there has to sit a bit lower, to the 8 or 9 o'clock position to make them work. I know rewelding the brackets to the classic 10 o'clock position is a pain and I wouldn't do that in your case unless you just wanted to, or the bleeds absolutely make you fit them there.
Rewelding the support brackets to the right position is a snap too BTW. All you have to do is hook up the brake line to the loose caliper, put it on the rotor where you want it and have someone hit the brakes. The caliper will lock down into the right position. Attach the support bracket to the caliper then tack weld and weld the bracket to the housing. It will automatically be in the right position! Job done. Cobrashock Amended - blyins, you must of fired off your final reply while I was on the tube typing up a reply. What was the final position of the calipers? cobrashock |
"The 'possum ghosts made me do it!! The 'possum ghosts made me do it!!!"
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You'll never let me live that down, will you Edley?
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Meant in fun, is all !!! lol !!! Sorry if I offended.
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Oh, I knew you were joking....just giving you a little stab back... :)
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