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460 block plate & throwout questions
I've gotten to the point of wanting to mate the engine with the transmission. (460 with a Richmond / Lakewood bellhousing) I've bought all my parts from Mike Forte but have a few questions. Do I need a blockplate on the 460? It looks like I do? Does anyone have one to sell or know where to buy one? I also need the bottom flywheel coverplate if it is a seperate Pc.
Also, on trial fitting, the Hydraulic throwout ( a Weber / Mcloed bolt up unit) is in constant contact with the pressure plate. (Weber Diaphragm). Is this correct? Since there is no adjustment that I can see, I don't know. It sure doesn't seem right though. I know to replace the banjo fittings with AN fittings and make sure my pedal stop is installed. Anything else I need to know besides making sure to indicate in the Lakewood?:confused: |
Yes, you need a block plate.
The TO shouls not be in constant contact with the pressure plate fingers. Push TO so it is fully compressed. AT that state it should have .100"-.125" clearance to the pressure plate fingers. (prior to being hooked up to clutch master cyl) The McLeod TO has a collar that threads in/out to adjust how far on the input shaft it extends. Screw it in a litle more to get the clearance you need. |
Tilton makes SS lines
and this along with the Tilton HTOB is what we are using for my re-assembly (McCleod 12 inch clutch) Be sure that you do not go too far the other way and make the travel too extreme for dis-engagement. This will cause excessive line pressure and this is usually the cause of o-ring failure. The Tilton unit has a new style of fitting that is superior to the banjos, and allows full movement which AN fittings do not. My tranny guys seem to think it's a better way to go. Seriously consider an adjustable pedal stop of some sort.. this will ensure that you do not hyper-extend the TOB and skyrocket the line pressure.
Also make sure that you have a dead center on the bellhousing/engine output shaft. This is done by setting up a dial caliper on the shaft, (mount it to the bellhousing, I assume with a magnet or clamp) and turning the engine slowly. This is my limit of my knowledge on this issue but others here with a lot more experience can give you hands-on advice. |
The fittings don't have anything to do with the travel of the TO. The part of the TO that has lines going to it just sits there, it doesn't move. Fittings will not restrict it's non-movement
If your clutch master is not properly sized (probubly ain't) then you NEED a pedal stop. |
True from what I understand
The concept presented to me was that the inability to swivel might eventually be hard on the SS lines themselves. May or may not be true but Tilton claims they have totally solved the issue with these new lines I have. They swivel like banjo fittings but have some new type improved o-ring system with a seating groove and an improved o-ring (.. it's been months since I looked at them and they are still at the tranny shop waiting to be installed so I forget exactly what they look like)
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