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Do you remember what gear it was pulled on then? at 3000rpm on dyno it was 18 air/fuel ratio which is strange to me because it flattens out near 4000 into i guess what would be considered normal. Idles around 1100rpm and when driving it acts shaky at anything under 2000rpm. |
You want whatever gear is 1:1. On most 5 speeds, that's 4th. If the Richmond is different, I am not sure.
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Keith,
You must understand that those numbers were on an engine dyono on a stand, those are flywheel numbers. Typically, you will suffer 15 to 18% loss thruogh the drive trains and it sounds like the 1:1 ratio for the RG may suffer some loss too. I don't think the car was ever chassis dynoe'd though. Don't forget you've got dual 4 barrels there which could probably use a thorough going through. The car sat more than it was driven the last two years or so. I don't know what Fred did to prep it prior to the sale r what you have done thus far, but I would start with a thorugh tune of the engine and carbs, find the sweet timing spot, get those carbs tweaked and then leave them alone. |
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Keith |
Man I wished my cobra only loss 18%, I would be pretty ecstatted about that. Mine dynoed 612 at flywheel, but only 442 at rear wheels. Man that is a 28% loss, almost shameful. Got all the goodies to like very unrestricted exhaust, 3.73 gears (they say that makes no difference on dyno figures), Mcleoud double disc clutch(no slippage there), and the good old IRS(BMW). Although nothing to be ashamed of, forget the numbers, this b**ch is fast, fast, fast.
DON |
How do these little honda civic 4-bangers dyno out at 500-600hp at the wheels? Nitrous and charging i know but i can't imaging how all the other drive line parts hold up. Guess the engines don't last too long either....
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The IRS diffs in these cars are really lossy when compared to a standard live axle. BTW neverwouldof, thats a nice car you have!
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Your car has a very big lean spot at 3000 rpms. You may need to do some more tuning on the carb. Its killing your torque.
Later dennis |
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He said he was impressed with the max torque, and the flatness of the curve. I had asked him about dynoing engines, and he said he likes to dyno them on the stand just to make sure the engine is OK, and get it somewhat close, but he really likes to dyno the engine in the car, to really tune it to the best, with all the equipment installed. Considering I was using mostly factory ford parts, heads, intake, carb, I figured my engine came out pretty good. |
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When I remove the side pipes and bolt on my shortys I can FEEL the difference big time. MUCH faster with the open headers.
Standard TKO type trans could either .6 or .8 in 5th gear, for sure it's overdrive, use 4th on a dyno. With the Richmond running in 4th (not 1 to 1 in 5th) I would expect a substantial drive train loss, that pretty much kills any dyno numbers and puts you back to square one. |
What air cleaner were you running on the 2 fours when you dyno'd it? If its those little chrome things one for each carb..then I know where some of the power went.
On my ERA I gained over 40 lb of torque from just changing to the stainless pipes with less restrictive mufflers...and 18-20% loss would be about right...Again if you have those 2 chrome air cleaners on the carbs those will suck the life out of a motor because it can't get enough air! matt |
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Thanks for your inputs!!! |
Look at your A/F ratio. You start to go lean at about 2200 rpm. You reach a maximum lean of nearly 18:1 A/F ratio before 3000 rpm. You don't come back to the ranch until almost 4000 rpm. You have a fuel delivery problem! Don't know where it is but you have it big time. You might check float levels, needle and seat assemblies (less likely). The fuel pump's ability to supply high volumes on short notice, with adequate pressure ...
Engines make power by burning fuel. The more you burn (at the right A/f ratio) the more you make. Timing is absolutely essential to making power, be sure to check out your ignition system. When you fix it get ready for robust numbers and performance and a lot of driving pleasure. Low speed torque is the stuff dreams are made of. Ed |
When I run at the drags I remove air filters and sidepipes and usually change jets as well. If not, I'm solid in the 12's instead of 11's.
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...a litlle insight on Richmond 5 speeds... 5th gear is the 1-1 ratio, 4th being similar to 3rd in a standard 4 speed. As Sal said the low gear pull will make smaller numbers. Also.. I'd be a little leary of a shop that didn't know what gear to use, IMHO. The Richmond 6 spd is Richmond's only over drive tranny. Their 5 speed is a spin-off from the old Doug Nash 5 speed. Dave |
Thanks to all who responded!
Thanks Guys.... looks like i have a little work to do. I'll be back and post some info of what was done and get it back on the dyno once things are fixed up. I appreciate your input!
Keith |
Some of the ones I have seen are the large K&N Filters..but to fit under the hoods you need to have a drop base made for the air cleaner...Rob at Keith Craft Motorsports has made a few for some of keith's cars...he can speak more to what the small 8's will do to your power...Also what mufflers are in the pipes..you should see some of the ones that have been taken off...Rob has a brand he replaces SPF's with and gets quite a HP gain.
Matt |
recently my SPF was on a Mustang Chassis dyno for some tuning, basically a 392 Windsor, performer RPM, 750 holley Pro, trick flow heads, match ported, MSD, standard SPF side pipes. roller lifters over a flat tappet A351 Motorsports cam (pretty aggressive). Peak hp was 391 at 4960 rpm, where it also flattened out, peak torque 451 at 4000rpm, pretty flat torque curve. AF ratio was adjusted a bit with jets, althought for street use, i down jetted the primary two sizes, it was just to "gassy" on the street with their rich jetting. It is also a very tractable motor, for street and track.
Just thought i would post what a non-exotic Windsor could put out. |
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