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Oil Cooling tips needed
Howdy, I realize what section of the forum I am in and I don't have a Cobra, however, I have used you guys in the past to help me figure out other oiling configurations for my car as this forum seems to be on top of this type of fabrication. This forum has always been a great help to me in the past. I've been searching my current problem on this site for about a year now, but now I have to make some decisions.
Anyway, what I am trying to do is setup and oil cooler on my 1995 Ford Taurus SHO. The biggest problem I am running into at the moment is fitting something on the block. I do not want to run a remote-filter, however, I do want a thermostatic sandwich, or regular sandwich (w/ inline t-stat) that is also high flow. My buddy has a similar setup, but the block webbing makes it difficult to fit large fittings from the sandwich. I'm looking to fit -10 or -12 AN fittings off of the sandwich, where as my buddy is limited to -8, IIRC. Basically, it appears that I need a spacer between the block and the sandwich. I've noticed that Mocal makes several different sizes, however, their website isn't far from great, so I'm not sure if they'll have anything from me. In the past with an AMSOIL setup, I have had problems with restricted flow. I ended up spinning a bearing on the track, however, the lack of flow wasn't the only contributor. Other than that, I have a Fluidyne Therm-HX cooler ready to go (DB-30416 - 14 3/4" x 6 1/4" x 2 3/4"). As I said, I'd like to run -10 AN or 12 AN fittings. If anyone can offer advise on a good spacer or other plausible routes, I'm all ears. Thanks!! Just an idea of what I'm working with here... I built this motor to handle LOTS of power, so I'm not dealing with a stock Taurus. http://www.hosting.superhighoutput.c...7/IMG_6787.jpg http://www.hosting.superhighoutput.c...7/IMG_6790.jpg |
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Sup Jason :).
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I'm not sure if there is a "correct" answer but here's the question:
The Canton thermostat is only available with a 215 degree cutoff while the Mocal has 180 degree cutoff. I had found a post that indicated that the bearing temperature is about 70 degrees higher than the oil temp and that the bearings begin to experience excess wear after 250 degrees. Does anyone know if those parameters are accurate? I like the Canton unit but am concerned that the operating temp may not be appropriate for a mainly street application. Any feedback or experience with either the Canton or Mocal would be greatly appreciated. |
If you use a sandwich adapter that doesn't have a t-stat would that allow for the fittings you want? You could use a remote t-stat or a water to oil cooler. With the water to oil cooler, you don't need a t-stat.
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The stock setup incorperated a water-to-oil heat exchanger that also had a thermostat-type setup, however, it was unable to keep the oil cool. I ditched it because it just added too much length with the filter I use and could cause it not to fit.
The thermostatic sandwich's are just the same as the non-thermostatic sandwich's. It would not allow for size fittings I want. |
Impressive engine, I can see how space in that compartment would be at a premium. Here is a shot of a Canton sandwich adapter with a thermostat, the outlet fittings are 12AN.
I am not sure what the constrictions are that you speak of in terms of needing a spacer, do you mean to separate the filter setup farther away from the block laterally or extend the setup farther down or closer to the road? http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/143_4324.JPG |
Here's what I'm working with... I need a sandwich with large fittings. The exhaust is in the way, as well as the outer portion of the bell housing and the webbing on the block.
http://hosting.superhighoutput.com/y...7/IMG_6155.JPG http://hosting.superhighoutput.com/y...7/IMG_6163.JPG |
If you install the sandwich adapter between the block and the oil filter on your engine, as the engine is configured in the last picture, you will be extending the total length from block face to end of filter an extra 1-1/4". The adapter can be mounted and sealed any direction you want the outlet and inlet fittings to point, with the actual fittings being rotated within the adapter to suit your specific needs. There should not be any interference other than the close exposure to the header pipes which looks like they would heat up the filter itself quite a bit, but hell, thats the way they designed it.
Is that car front wheel drive? |
I know you don't want to use a remote, but you're fighting against yourself. I owned a SHO (certainly not built to where yours is ;) ), so I have a fairly good idea of what you're dealing with, as I'm sure Sal does.
I never did like that filter where it sat...put it up there with the windshield water bottle. It's all reversible if that's a concern, and I think it would compliment your engine compartment. KISS :) JMHFO |
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The only place the fittings can come out is toward the bell housing. I had the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated inside and out, in addition to ceramic coated heat shields. Quote:
Bat/Mocal makes spacers and Eric at Bat may have a small spacer for me. I just need 1" or so to give clearnce, but not extend the filter too much. I REALLY do not want a remote filter. I don't really like the location either, but it's not difficult to change and I don't drive it too much, so there's not too many oil changes needed. |
I meant to the new location of the washer bottle...the mods you made are hard to miss. Course, the accumulater will take up a bit of where I had in mind. ;)
Nice car...hope the spacer works. |
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Just for reference, in this picture you can see how I used to have the filter setup where you suggested. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...93_16_full.jpg |
Gotcha ;)
Damn, I miss those cars. Had a black one...ultimate sleeper. Had nice Yamaha block lettering on the trunklid just for fun. |
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Do you have a link where I can find those fittings? From that picture, it looks as if those fittings do not extend as far as the swivel fittings I've seen. |
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