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3/4 and 7/8 and I have a brand new kit still in the box for a 7/8 (I think) if you are interested. I can check at home tonight if you like.
Clois |
Clois,
If you could check what size you have, I might be interested Are you running 3/4 front 7/8 rear with the same caliper? |
Going to 3/4-7/8 will results in a 36% increase in pressure, 5/8-3/4 in 100% for a given pedal presure. Same increase in travel and reduction of pedal effort. Those pads are the 'Q' compound. Understand that they don't work as well until they get some heat in them. Their CF rises 20% from cold to 'hot' which on this pad is a narrow range at about 500 degrees. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, have you bed your pads?;)
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Here is a good little article that will help you tell: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinfaq.shtml
Also, if you look at the side of the pad there is a color difference the first few mm from the surface, it is darker. Look at all things to see where you are. As some one on the other thread mentioned, you may have glazed the pads by now. They will have a glassy sort of look to the face of them it so. You can sand them down (I pitch them and buy new ones) and sand down the face of the rotor with a medium grit paper and then clean the surface with denatured alchohol. Then, bed them properly according to the link I provided for Wilwood. Brakes get better once properly broke in, but, they can get worse if improperly broke in. |
I'd go with the 5/8" in the front and the 3/4" in the rear. That combo's worked great for me..
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rdorman,
I know you have been mentioning the bedding process but I can not stop hard enough to get the pads to bedd FAQ #2: What happens if I can't do the bed-in right away? Often times, weather or other conditions can prevent one from fully bedding-in the brakes before having to drive the car. Fortunately, this is not a dire situation. If you are running new street/performance pads and rotors, remember that they are designed for the street and will slowly bed-in by themselves over time. Typically just a few stops from moderate speeds will start the bed-in process for normal driving. Undy, I am think I might order the 5/8 for the front anduse the one chrome 3/4 that works for the rear. If this seems like it works then I will order a new 3/4. Drafting a letter to Tilton executive team. Honestly is there a difference between Tilton and Wilwood Cylinders ? |
rdorman & Undy,
Well I tried the 3/4 and 7/8 rear. The car stops like a champ. Since I had the tires off I took ou the brake pads and sanded them down. I also sanded the rotors as well. I want to thank all of you guys that help with my problem especially rdorman and Undy. You guys really stuck in there with me. I am not too sure about the 5/8 in the front. I think it might make the pedal alittle too hard. But I have to say it is amazing the way my car stops now. I have never heard my tire stop and screech. :) rdorman... Now it is time for me to bedd the pads :) 1 more item left to complete my car. Webers!!!!! Still tuning them but at least now I can concentrate on those carbs. Thank you again Rdorman, Do you recommend different pads then what I currently have ? Also most there |
I'm glad the braking issue appears to be resolved. It can be truly exasperating.
I'm used to a ton of braking with my Z06 and expect nothing less (within reason) from the Cobra. The 5/8" front gives me what I'm looking for. I was so woefully inadequate when I started (1" fronts and 7/8" rears) that after the M/C shuffle (4 renditions) was the first time I was ever able to drive the Cobra without constantly being on the alert for potential "braking deficient" impacts.:D At least mine was one of Lone Star's turn-key cars so I've someone that I can blame..:LOL: |
Quote:
Great to hear! As for pads, if it is not broke, don't fix it! When and if you go to put a new set in, let us know. After you bed your pads, get your bias right and you will be a happy braker! :) By the way, did I mention that the fee for consulting was one set of webers;) |
Here is your consulting fee. Since you provided with information and not the actual m/c, I figured I can make payment the same.
Here is your payment http://www.piercemanifolds.com/products.htm They will be more than happy to get you started ;) I am so pleased to have this completed. Only one thing bothers a little now. I noticed the pads were glazed and I used a hi speed 120 grit sanding disk on the rotor. Also,Hmmm should I try 5/8 |
It is amazing what a little sanding can do!
JB :) |
Yes,
JBCObra I think you were the one that advised me to check the pads. If not, who ever it was and everyone that helped thank you |
Thanks for the link! Yummy: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Images/Catalog/K9110.htm
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I do not know all the specifics of your system. Obviously, you have considerable time invested in research and problem solving. I had a similar problem on an original car, and read in Carroll Smith's "Prepare to Win" book that when the master cylinder is below the calipers, solving the soft pedal problem after thorough bleeding can often be as simple as installing a 2psi check valve between the MC and whereever the feed line breaks into serving the calipers.
I did this, and have solved my problem. I hope this simple answer might be the trick for you. Good Luck! Bob |
Robert,
Thanks for your reply. My MC are mounted above the calipers. I was able to solve the problem with the following combination 1) replaced calipers with 3/4 front 7/8 rear 2) sand brake pads possibly glazed 3)sand rotor I took the car for a drive and hit the pedal agressively and the car locked all four tire. Thanks for your post. |
Brakes
Great ! How Go Cook Your Turkey .Happy Thanksgivng
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