weight & ballance of my Cobra
 

I got my car on the scales a while back.

1300 lb on the back wheels
1140 lb on the front wheels
2440 lb total weight.

This is 46.7% front and 53.7% on the rear tires.

That was 2.5 gallons shy of a full tank of gasoline.

The engine is a aluminum head and aluminum intake 5.0 stroker.

I was expecting closer to 50/50%.

Is this typical?

3% differential isn't bad at all, no?

The results of the Capital Area Cobra Club's "weigh day" from this summer:
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/...ay+results.jpg

Worse than that
 

Hi,
You forgot to add the weight of the DRIVER and or passenger.
It will make another 150 to 200 lbs bias toward the rear.
Perry.

Your weight is missing?
 

olddog First I would go to 1/2 tank of gas unless you are trying to run light. Next need your body in the seat with helmet and suit. What are you looking to do with the car??? Autocross or roadrace?? If so you will need higher rated springs and more adjustable shocks for the track. The 48/52% front to back weight is good, but need your diagonal weights and camber,caster numbers. Toe readings also. I run a BBF all aluminium in my car. Street front springs are 275lbs per inch compression single adjustment, I have gone to 450lbs springs and QA1 dual adjustment shocks. I run street class in autocross. The car dones not plow in the frontend anymore, and went 4 seconds faster in roadracing on the same course. If you are really serious about setting up your car, you need to get a log sheet and tiregauge and temp tire readings. WWW.hrpworld.com Has all the stuff you need for your car if you want to get into competition, you might want to go to a driving school and get a couple of the handling books to read that are on the market. The easiest way to do street and racetrack is 2 complete setups of springs, shocks, wheels. Add a fire system Halon 10lb with 3 jets for the motor, you, and the back of the car, fuel tank area. Full roll cage with foam wrapped around the bars. I don't know what size you brakes are and size of rims for your wheels, but get the biggest brakes you can. They are your friends.:D Learn to understand what your car is doing and to make adjustments is the biggest thing to going fast and having fun. Drive within your limits%/ I do. A cobra, any cobra is a handfull of car to drive, it's faster than most people react and very unforgiven when you made a mistake. Been there, learned that. Lucky or GOD, have no damage to car yet. Been close. Good luck If you want to talk call me 732-254-3536 in the evening after 8:00pm est

Rick,

Your ahead of me. I'm mostly interested in driving on the road. I was a little surprised that there was more weight on the rear wheels than the front. I was expecting 52/48 front/back and have 47/53, but it looks like that is fairly normal - at least with SB engines.

I would like to try an auto cross - looks like a lot of fun. I need to learn quite a bit more before I'm ready for this.

Thanks

Traction and weight transfer
 

olddog As far as racing, the autocross is the slowest with only 1-2 gear shift. Most courses only let you get to 40 mph. It feels like you are going 80.:eek: You are not. The worst thing is hitting the cones, have not seen an damage to the cars from this. You want the weight in the back of the car for traction. I ran 50/50 and had the car centered and dialed in, Or so I thought. The car will plow around turns with the 275 lb springs in the front end. We had Morris Clement give a 4 hour course on car setup. By the time it was over 28 guys where all beat:rolleyes: 90% of us didn't have suspension for the track to start with and the car where all diving in the corners, both SB & BB. The other thing was most had the weight % on the front tires not the back. You can't believe the differents when you get the car setup better for the track. Night and Day.%/ Best money spent for info on suspension. There are weight scales at the track, everyone was changing there suspension around. When all said and done, everyone was going about 2-5 seconds faster with the weight changes. You could just change you front springs and go to 375-400lb and you will see a big differents in the handling and turning of the car. The car should turn flat, not nose down on the opposite corner of the car. The car is still street driviable with the ride. I you look on the internet for shocks and springs, a good price is about $600.00 + shipping. SHOP HARD.:mad: The pro's for BB cars are running in the 600lbs for front springs and 500lbs for SB motors. If free next year and don't mind the ride, come to the Run&Gun. We have a novice class for people that want to try this under controlled speeds for the fun, 3 days of driving the car at the track will have you tired. Safety is the most important thing at R&G. You will need a nomex helmet and we ask you have a race nomex jacket. You can get both for under $200.00 at Summit or Jegs. Great people there, everyone helps out if car has a problem. Have some courses for learning how to drive the road course, running the line, dinner friday night, awards, it's a good time by all. Bring a friend other the other half, if bored they go shopping in St. Lious. ;) All the info you will get is worth the trip alone. I travel 1K miles from Jersey for this event. 17 hours. The Dragon guys are 6 hours north of me and come every year. They get the ironbutt award.:rolleyes: :) Paul drives both ways and races.:JEKYLHYDE It's in Oct, check on the forum here for more info. The weather was beautiful last year, 70's weds, 68 thurs,fri, and finished racing sat before the rain came, everybody was on the road for home by 1:00pm. You have my number, hope to maybe see you next year. Rick L. Ps first name would be nice, better then calling you olddog.:rolleyes: And you have the cobra sickness, there is no cure ha-ha;) :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Rick - the autocross being slow is what appeals to me. I have no desire to screw the car up or get myself killed. I was wondering how bad the cones mar up the paint. I expect a newby is likely to hit one.

I have to give credit to whoever set my car up. It hooks to the ground and handles better than any car I ever owned. It worries me a little, because everyone on here talks about what a handful these cars are to drive, and I find it easy to handle. Now I caution that with the fact that I have not pushed it hard, as I have only driven it on the street. I do not take chances with the car. Also when I was a puppy, I did build and own some pretty hot cars.

I had wanted to go to run and gun this past fall, but work had me tied up :CRY: . I didn't plan to take my car. I was just going to watch and see what I could learn. Hopefully next year I will make it.

Thanks for all the advice.

Buy the way my first name is Rick. You have to admit it is a great name. :LOL:

I understand what you are saying
 

Olddog Rick I am not out there trying to get killed or burn the car to the ground. It took me 20+ years of saving change to get my car.%/ I have the first appleton power rack in an ERA car. It works great. I go to R&G for the people and fun. Every year I seam to help 2-3 keep there cars running. I don't know if your car rolls in a turn or stays flat. The spring info was just to help improve the car's driving experience. I don't get crazy on the autocourse, 120 mph is fast enough for me. With $60G in the car, I am not looking for wall paint.:eek: :rolleyes: :LOL: I have run 15" tires and race 17" tires. The handling of the car is totally different. 15" roll and the 17" are like slicks. Good Luck, happy holidays.Rick