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Priming Oil Pump
Went to prime the pump on my brand new KC 482 and found that I was not getting any oil pressure. Started with a wireless Dewault and as soon as the drill saw resistance it struggled...so, I switched it out with a 1/2" cord drill. Still no results. I'm spinning it counter clock-wise. I pulled the hoses from the oil cooler and oil came out of each end of the cooler (so it is full). I pulled the oil pressure hose line, cleaned it out, and checked the guage (all is good). I double checked the hoses and don't believe I have any hooked up backwards. When looking through the distributor hole I do not see any oil around the lifters.
Then, I tried priming without the oil pressure line attached and NO oil came out of the fitting. I called Keith; however, he was not around. Tony is telling me to just keep spinning it and let if fill up completely. I have spun it for about 25-30 seconds, about 6 different times. I am going to pull the remote oil filter block plate and see if the gasket might be on backwards and then spin for a longer period of time. I have primed pumps before and they have never taken this long to show pressure. Anyone have any other ideas? |
Another check you can do
Pull a valve cover and see if any oil is getting to the valve train via the oil passage in the rocker stand. Oil should be dripping copiously from the rocker shafts after 10 sec or so with the drill motor.
And the obvious.. you did put oil in it, right?:LOL::LOL: Keith ships them dry. Sam |
I did pull a valve cover and saw some residual oil; however, none dripping from the rocker stands.
Oil? (chuckle) Yes, 7 quarts in the pan and 1 in the filter. What is odd is that oil was pushed through the oil cooler but not through the oil pressure line (which is the reason I'm going to check to see if the remote oil filter gaske was put on backwards). Oh, Keith has already dynoed this engine so it has seen oil pressure (I hope). Quote:
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Looks like you will need to drop the pan and pack the oil pump with vasoline,then reassemble.
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If you encountered enough resistance where you had to shift from your battery powered drill to a 115vac 1/2" drive electric one then you're pumping oil. The oil pump DOES NOT need priming. Id hook up the drill again and hit it hard for several minutes with the valve cover(s) off, CCW as before.
Dave |
Check the hoses going into the remote filter. It sounds like you may have them reversed, not allowing any oil to flow through it.
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Quote:
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Here is how I have the hose routed:
1. Line from top (left) of the remote oil filter adapter to the oil filter inlet. 2. Line from the oil filter outlet to the passanger side oil cooler post. 3. Line from the driver's side oil cooler post to the bottom (right) of the remote oil filter adapter. I believe the oil flows in this same direction, am I wrong? Quote:
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Didn't know I had one?
Quote:
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Here's a link to the ERA manual showing the oil line connections. Pay close attention to the hoses connected to the block adapter. I think from the way you described your connections you may have them reversed at the block. I used this as a resource when I did my install on my SPF.
http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/oilcooler/index.htm :3DSMILE::3DSMILE::3DSMILE: |
The line that feeds the Outside perimeter of the actual filter should be connected to the "Outlet" on the Engine Block. Oil will then flow from the center of the actual filter to the "Inlet" on the Engine Block. It may be easier to switch hoses at the block, than at the filter.
It is easy to get confused on this. |
Thermostat Adapter?
Mine is just a pass through, but IF you have the thermostat block, it does not pass oil to the cooler till 160 deg F. See Earl's 502ERL at Summit for reference.
Sam |
Wow, I think your right....
Quote:
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The easy way to tell is remove the hoses from the adaptor on the block. Spin that drill up CCW and you will have oil shooting out ONE of the big fittings (and the pressure line outlet.) That is the line that goes to the filter inlet. The other should be the return from the cooler.
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