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could use some help with tko 600 instal
Hi guys: Installing the drivetrain now. got the engine in fine, the motor mounts are loose. I put the tranny in thru the inside of the car. the tranny will not go any further forward. its right up to the collar that rests inside the hole of the bellhousing, but will not go 1/4 in. forward. The mounting bolts are just about lined up. I have the engine jacked up alittle at the bellhousing(lakewood). Any words of wisdom????
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Lee Manns
Could your clutch disc have slipped out of alignment, did the clutch fork get pushed/bumped enough to have released the clamping of the P plate? Put the tranny in gear and turn the output shaft with a yoke or driveline if needed just a little to allow it to slip into the clutch disc. Hold your tongue just right and wiggle the tranny while watching the angle of all. It will go when it wants to LeManns. Jeff C |
it seems like its thru the spline. it has to move 1/4 inch then its in.
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the drive shaft yoke will not turn when its in gear. i put just a tiny bit of grease on the input shaft for the pilot bushing.
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That leaves the bearing in the crank, pilot bearing. Did you check or replace the pilot bearing diameter and input shaft diameter? If all is correct it just needs a wiggle. Not to scare ya but I have seen the needles of a roller bearing get knocked loose if banged around pretty hard.
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its all new. i'll have to check, but i think he used a pilot bushing.i had the transmission guys check the diameter of the shaft for the engine builder.
standard stock ford. how much force is it supposed to take to get it in the pilot bushing? |
I have used studs and put nuts on them to apply a little pressure while wiggling into place but be careful. Horror stories include broken tranny ears from too much pressure or un-even pressure. I also had somebody fill the cavity with too much grease, maybe filled the pilot bushing completely then wrenched the bolts down until it pushed the bearing out of the crank - hydraulic'd bushing out of crank.
Apply a little force but listen to that little voice. |
Lemans,
When you ordered the TKO600 did you get the shorten input shaft? You may want to check into this. I have an FE engine and recall having to change out the input shaft otherwise it would bottom out on the crank. There are some threads you can search which discuss this issue. I seem to remember some guy damaged his engine by forcing the tranny in with the input shaft binding against the crank. He started the engine and it screwed up a bearing or something like that. I hope this helps. Mark |
Yep, I was going to say the same thing as Mark; is the input shaft the short model?
Larry |
got the short shaft. its away from the bellhousing the distance of the collar on the tko. about 1/4 of an inch. it looks like it has room to slide in. very tight though. i ground down the powder coating on the inside edge of the housing.
when the block is jacked up, its moving around a bit. |
Did you have them matched up (bolted together) prior to installing in the car?
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Lemans, Just to be safe...
1. Pull the tranny back out and get a clutch alignment tool and check to see if it runs home in the pilot bearing, ensuring beyond a shadow of a doubt that everything's lined up. 2. Do a visual inspection of the pilot bearing, throwout bearing and clutch fork. This will ensure nothing got bumped or dislodged thus far. 3. Check the relative depth of the crank's bore where the pilot bearing resides. Compare that to the same relative depth of the tranny's input shaft. You get the idea ... use a parralell straight edge, depth gauge etc. It wouldn't be the first time a tranny was ordered with the short input shaft and a "It slipped through the craks." occured and the shaft never got swapped. Just looking at it ya can't really tell the short shaft from the long one, unless you're Mike Forte or Jimi G... Let us know what you find. Dave |
Don't want to rain on the parade
Lemans24 Did you center the bell housing on the block? This is very important. The other thing is about trying to rotate the trans and see if it will side in. I have done the 4 bolt pull in deal as a last chance to get the trans in. The problem is damage to the pilot bushing or bearing. Trans needs to be in gear when trying to side it in the last 1/2". The other idea that I have done to my trans missions is grind the nose of the input shaft down a little more where is starts to go into the pilot bushing. you have to be very careful not to overheat the shaft. I only modiflied that last 1/4". If the trans doesn't side in you may want to pull the motor and do the assembly on the floor then reinstall the motor. Put the trans in after would. If you raise the car enough can you install the 2 parts togeather? Make sure you have plenty of weight on the motor hoist has to not flip the works. Get 2 -3 guys to help with this. Good luck Rick L.
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Being off a quarter inch sure seems as though the clutch disk has slipped and your not going into your pilot bearing straight. On a new install I would never try and pulll the transmission up to the bellhousing for fear of breaking off one of the ears of the tranny. Is this a new bellhousing and if so did you index with the center line?
Clois |
I had the same problem
I found my was hung up on the powder coating on the scatershield that you wrote you ground off. I noticed on mine that the fit of the pilot bearing is an exact fit and it helped that I put some powdered grafite on the shaft and bearing. Makes your back hurt along with your head.
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i called Standard transmission. The collar was a tight fit. the applied science of a mini sledge and a piece of wood delicately massaged, convinced the tranny to seat perfectly. thank you for all your responses. now on to fuel
lines.... |
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