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Shoulder harness attach points?
I want to attach shoulder harnesses on both sides of my Contemporary. Problem is, I have nowhere in the trunk to structurally attach them. I don't want to use the roll bar for the driver harness, as I'm not terribly fond of how that looks, and it still keeps me scratching my head to a solution to the passenger side. I'd like the straps on both sides to pass through the bulkhead into the trunk.
The fiberglass of my bulkhead is about 1/4" thick. I know the fiberglass in and of itself would make a terrible mounting point. I was thinking about cutting two 1/4" plates of aluminum, each about 18 or so inches wide, and about 10 or so inches tall, and attaching each to the rear side of the bulkhead with strong mounting bolts, then attaching the shoulder straps to these plates, using the plates to spread the load of the harnesses across a wide area of the fiberglass bulkhead in the unfortunate event that they're needed. Any ideas here guys? What have you all done about this? The frame is not an option, as it's too far away. Would the plate method I describe work? All input is appreciated. |
The plate method would work for looks and minor stress but if you plan to track the car at all I don't think it will pass. I know it wouldn't here. Even bolted to the Fiberglass, a strong jerk such as a hard crash could tear the bolts right through the glass.
Can you bring them straight down over the back of the seat to an anchor point in the trunk? Here we are required on the track to have them anchored somewhat below the top of the seat. Are you using the Y type or single straps for the shoulder belts? Ron |
I had a similar issue. I not fond of attaching the seat belts to the roll bar either. I also wanted to ensure that the mounting point was as high as possible to prevent spinal compression in the event of an accident.
On mine I used a 1/4 inch steel plate that I placed on the top of the rear end chassis. I drilled holes through the chassis members and bolted the steel plate to the frame using 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts. To the plate, I then bolted 1/4 inch angle iron which had formerly been used for earthquake plates on computer racks. I cut this into 7 inch pieces, one for each side, and drilled the holes for the connection points on the steel plate and for the seat belts. To make connection a little easier, I tapped the front holes on the plate and screwed in the bolts so that I would not have to be in two places at the same time to connect the angle irons. For me, the angle iron also serves as a cover for the top of the shock tower. I've included the link to a picture in my gallery showing how I set everything up. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...6&ppuser=24713 You may not be able to do the same thing but hopefully it provides some ideas. Mike |
Just use the mounting points in the trunk where the body attaches to the frame. There are four mounting points in the trunk, two near the rear of the trunk lid and two near the bulk head. Use the ones closest to the bulkhead. I believe its the highest point on the rear frame rails about half way between the bulkhead and the trunk lid. Mounting to the frame is the strongest way possible to secure them.
That is how I did mine in my Contemporary FIA. |
follow manufacturers install instructions: VERY IMPORTANT!
belts stretch: too long a run and they will allow you to hit the steering wheel etc. should be mounted at shoulder level above/below by aa few degrees allowable: too low of a mound and wii cause spine compession finally, submarine belt imprtant: ties the whole system together and keeps yuo from sliding under the harness 5 point good, 6 point better. cb |
Echo Chipperb,
Be careful on your strap angle, they do not suggest anything below horizontal back to front. The the belts can be snapped on and off of the roll bar bracket or tucked behind the seats when not used. |
yep, install instructions will only allow A FEW DEGREES above or below the shoulder.
I also use belt pads to prevent some bruising from the belt during impact. cb |
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