Paxton Supercharger
 

Hi all

Just Wanting to know a bit about paxton supercharger. Is that the best supercharger and does any one have one in there car

thanks coco

I have the Paxton kit that was installed in the Eleanor cars. It is very compact and a quality product. In my opinion, a good choice.

Will the Paxton fit under a FFR hood?
Steve

I think it would probably fit under most hoods because it is very low profile. There is a box that surrounds the carb and I do not think that it would be any higher or much broader than the standard air cleaner.

Not a paxton but here is the carb supercharger setup I used. It is the holley 174. I liked this route because of the use of a normal carb and fit under the hood

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...Cobra072-1.jpg

Can you get one for a 351 cleveland :confused::rolleyes:

thanks coco

I would call Vortech which is Paxton and ask them for the kit they provide to Shelby Performance. This is useable on both the big and small block motors.

Vortech Supercharger
 

I've got a Vortech supercharger on my FFR 302 c.i. Fits well under the hood and makes one heck of difference. Mucho power.

Have no problem leading the pack. Do have a problem though keeping the foot off the acelerator.

Wanne be blown?
 

I'd suggest a positive displacement Roots type such as the Kenne Bell, Holley, Roush or WhippleCharger. They make power at all RPMs vs having to rev the engine as with Paxton or Vortech. Torque is king. All make good power, but the Roots type makes usable power at all RPM levels.

There's a reason OEM manufacturers go with these vs centrufigal. I had a T-bird SC that we drove for 188,000 miles without any trouble at all from the blower. My Roush Mustang has tremendous power with its Roots blower.

Torque is king, but you don't need a roots blower in a Cobra.
 

Here's my combo...

435" 385 series ford based build, 7.88:1 compression.
Custom Vortech V7-JT supercharger setup (my design)
EFI (my design, built on OEM Ford EEC-IV)
Viper 6spd
All under-hood, no bubbles, hickeys, etc are required.

So far I've spun the engine to 5500rpm and here's what I've learned.

500ft-lbs of torque at 2500rpm, 660ft-lbs of torque at 5500rpm, 660hp at 5500rpm and climbing straight up at shut down. Peak torque occurs at 5600rpm, meaning peak power will be somewhere up around 6500-7000. These are rear wheel chassis dyno figures and were produced on a dynojet 248 running only 16deg total advance and 11:1 AFR. I'm purposely leaving it soft for the break-in miles; there's probably another 50-100hp in there if I simply add spark, but all of them are useless...I'm beyond the traction limit now.

After break-in miles (the WSCB), I'll check the lash and go ahead and spin it to 7K and see what she makes. 800rwhp probably, as pulleyed, with the potential for 30% more boost.

I don't know why you'd want more torque or more power in a cobra, and my car is a heavy example weighing in at 3000lbs (West Coast). The car easily breaks traction in 4th gear starting at freeway speeds with 335's in the rear. Drop 500lbs and it would be even worse.

There's pictures in my gallery, and here's a video taken last weekend.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17qAk_LIN8U

Now, if you're building something with short stroke, then I could see it...stock 302 with a Whipple and 5psi would be enough for one of these cars. If you have a specific goal in mind, maybe you need more. My goal is 1000fwhp; which means I want 800 at the rear wheels. Why? Why not, makes me happy.

Oh, and as far as centrifugals go, all I can really recommend is to stay away from ball drives. I've owned a few of them, and they leave me wanting. The boost is variable depending on how hot the oil gets. If you drive the car hard, slip will occur and you'll fry the ball drive. I've had a belt-drive (powerdyne) unit too, and though I was able to get away with road-race and other abuse, others were far from as lucky. Go with a gear drive unit. I prefer Vortech, but opinions vary. And whatever you get, make sure it includes a bypass valve for part-throttle venting of all that hot air during cruise.

I had a paxton on my Superformance (pics in my gallery) that work very well. Sold the car about 5 years ago and it is on Ebay for sale right now. There also is a 427 Kirkham on Ebay with twin Paxtons.......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPER...m250241038359&

Twin Paxston's? Two fit? Wonder how much that would set me back??

Purpose?
 

If I might ask, what is the goal of the twin paxton setup? For nostalgia purposes or the net power that results?

The reason I ask is that there are now single units available in a smaller form factor that support three times as much power as a single paxton ball drive, without the balls to wear out. Some even have helical gears for quiet operation.

The reason for the twin paxton setup at the time is because it was state of the art at the time for an under-hood (sorta) solution. If you want to replicate it for nostalgic reasons or aesthetics, by all means go for it. However, if you're just wanting the resulting power, a single Novi 2000 or similar will far surpass what a pair of the old SN series paxtons can put out and would be much easier to package and plumb.

I agree. The package that Shelby offers for the FE with the single carb in a box and one Vortech unit pumps out over 725hp and over 700 ft lbs of torque at 6 p.s.i. of boost at 6,000 rpm. That will easily propel a Cobra.

Cobra Automotive sells the twin Paxton set-up.

http://www.cobraautomotive.com/horsepower.htm

I think the phrase "propel a cobra" is a bit lacking in strength and amplitude. More like skid marks in your shorts for sure....but then, is enough ever enough?