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-   -   Engine Compartment Heat shielding (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-cobra-talk/88755-engine-compartment-heat-shielding.html)

mjmacqua 06-25-2008 03:42 PM
Engine Compartment Heat shielding help
 
Guys I am hoping for a little help.

Currently my Midstates Engine compartment is shielded with Alum all the way through. There is one area right by the header on the drivers side that is not shielded. Last year I noticed that the area was getting very brittle. A friend of mine just cut me 2 pcs of aluminum that I can use to shield that section. My question is it appears that there is something between the alum and the fiberglass (insulation?). Anyone have any receommendations for what to put between? This area gets pretty hot as the headers pass pretty close.

Please let me know your suggestions.

Thanks Mike

Silverback51 06-25-2008 04:17 PM
Actually the best thing you can do is have an air gap. If you have the room, put a minimum of a 1/4 inch spacer between the heat shield and body.

mjmacqua 06-25-2008 04:41 PM
Thanks
 
I was considering that... 1/4" is quite a bit, I do not want to get too close to the header and add heat to the alum shield.

There is something there now, I was hoping someone might know what it is. I was really hoping it was a heat resistant material.

Mike

mjmacqua 06-26-2008 05:23 AM
Bump to the top for more suggestions
 
Guys, any other experiences

Ron61 06-26-2008 05:48 AM
I used ThermoTech to insulate my engine compartment and all the way back through the transmission tunnel. It worked well but is not as nice for showing as stainless or aluminum. But I put it on in 1996 and it is still there and working. When it was dusty I just took a damp rag and wiped it off. I also put it around the starter area to keep heat away from the starter.

Ron

Jeffs_66SC 08-11-2008 09:35 AM
Heat shielding
 
Hi,

I added aluminum to the firewall in my '66 Midstates. Like the look, rather than just the black fiberglass. I put the thin Thermotech in between, then riveted the alum. Also put the thicker Thermotech all over under the carpet, then added fibrous carpet padding and/or dynamat inside the cockpit on the firewall, tunnel, etc. Fabricated an alum heat shield for under my firewall mounted Wilwood clutch and brake cyl's. The cockpit is as cool as the outside air. Also added a heat shield wrap to my headers just where they run underneath the mast/clutch cylinders, about 18" long. Everything under hood seems to be very happy. Glad to send you pics if need be.

Take care.

Jeff

mjmacqua 08-11-2008 09:52 AM
Pics
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffs_66SC (Post 869031)
Hi,

I added aluminum to the firewall in my '66 Midstates. Like the look, rather than just the black fiberglass. I put the thin Thermotech in between, then riveted the alum. Also put the thicker Thermotech all over under the carpet, then added fibrous carpet padding and/or dynamat inside the cockpit on the firewall, tunnel, etc. Fabricated an alum heat shield for under my firewall mounted Wilwood clutch and brake cyl's. The cockpit is as cool as the outside air. Also added a heat shield wrap to my headers just where they run underneath the mast/clutch cylinders, about 18" long. Everything under hood seems to be very happy. Glad to send you pics if need be.

Take care.

Jeff
Please send some pics. I would like to see the engine compartment. Especially interested where the headers travel thru the tunnel on the driver side.

I have alum shielding as well, just was missing it right there.
Email: mjmacqua@optonline.net

GreenSnakeDoc 08-12-2008 02:53 PM
Jeff,

How do you attach the aluminum to the fiberglass?

CHANMADD 08-12-2008 03:10 PM
I have some stuff...I don't know what its called ,but I remember buying it from UFO (Upholsterfy Fabric Outlet), and attached it with spray glue 3M and the header sits right on it and I have virtually no heat in the footwells.
John:D

sharpe 1 08-12-2008 03:32 PM
I have a Midstates and had the same problem. I used DEI heat screen, got it from summit.It is sandwiched between the fiberglass and an aluminum piece I cut to fit the foot box. Works great and leaves about 1/4" to 3/8" to clear headers.Attached with pop rivets.


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