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My Tilton holds the brake on.
I have three Tilton master cylinders for clutch, front and rear brakes.
When I was in London, I had the brakes stay on even after the pedal was released. I bled it out and finished my drive. Later I saw the rod between the pedal and the master cylinder was loose and had worked it's way in. I extended it and drove home without incident. Now it seems the rear will stay on, even if the pedal is released. I think I need a new master cylinder, but was wondering if anyone else had experienced this problem before. Any Ideas???? :D :D :D |
Have you tried adjusting the brake bias bar that connects the two masters? Or do you have the tandem style master?
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The brake pressure will not be released unless the cylinder returns fully. If anything prevents this, pressure will remain in the system.
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This happened to me on my first drive. Everything worked fine for the first few brakings, and then my front brakes LOCKED on while I was on the freeway. Had to drive 'through' the brake to get off the road. Left it for about an hour and everything was fine, brakes worked perfectly for a while, and then it did it again after 6 or 7 brakings. Turns out that I had overtightened the linkage so that the pedal was not returning completely by ONLY ABOUT 1/16". This was enough (as Strictly... says) that the cylinder was NOT returning fully, and was gradually increasing the pressure each time until it was just locked on. Over time, the pressure eased and I was able to use the brakes again.
Spotted it and fixed it quite quickly, but ONLY 1/16" was enough to cause my problems. Doesn't sound like this is your issue Tru, but you never know! Good luck Glyn |
Looks like you need to ensure that you have freeboard on both brake master cyl push rods with the pedal at rest. Around 1/16" should be sufficient, this allows the piston to come right back and uncover the port that goes to the reservoir so that any fluid expansion/pressure buildup can escape rather than partially applying brakes as in your case.
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I see. It is possible I adjusted the arm the wrong way when I worked on it after finding it loose.
If I give it about 1/8, will that give me too much travel before the rear engage? I do not want this to happend again. Thanks!! :D :D |
Tru...you might have to 'experiment' to find exactly how much this needs to be adjusted
Glyn |
there's some very good info on either the tilton or wilwood sites
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Brakes engaged
I actually had this happen to me and. On a ride home one day I felt the brakes grabbing and had smelled brake dust as I was driving. When I came to a stop the brakes were holding with my foot off the pedal. Stupid as it may sound but I had realized that before my trip I had moved my seat back and forth. When I pushed it forward it had pushed my floor mat about 2 inched into the pedal which held the pedal down as I drove. Glad it was nothing more htan that. Something to check out!
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also make sure you are not boiling your brake fluid from lines being too close the to the exhaust.
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You didn't mention running any residual pressure valves plumbed in line if you are check them as well. We have had nothing but problems with them on a couple of racecars locking up the brakes. If you do not have them disregard.
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I took out the line lock for the fronts...there are no other pressure devices in line after the master cylinder(s). I think you all are correct, the rod is probably too long and the pressure is not being allowed to be released.
I am going to adjust that tonight and see how it does. :D :D :D |
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