Flatbed Tow Advice
 

Having required a flat bed tow twice during the 4.5 years I've owned #747, I believe I've gained a lot of good experience in dealing with these situations. I occasionally read other threads that tell their own horror stories, so I thought I'd start a thread just on this topic alone.

Here are my quick suggestions and then I'll elaborate on each:

1. Have them grab it from the back, never from the front. Refuse the service if they insist otherwise. Other precautions are in order (read further below).
2. Always keep a nylon tow strap in your trunk.
3. Request a "split bed" flat bed if your area has one available.

(1) These guys tow for a living, so I try to respect them as much as possible. The problem is that they rarely (if ever) tow a low car like a Cobra. And they literally have to work the clock hard, meaning that the FASTER they can get your tow done the more money they can make by moving onto the next job. They want to grab it and go. Don't let them!

The angle on which they have to pull the car up the inclined tow ramp is too sharp to effectively move the car without rubbing the lower oil cooler valance/shroud or the rear gas tank. So they have to use a combination of 2x4 and 4x4 to gradually even the angles to create a straight pull.

The ONLY problem with a reverse tow is that too high of a speed may do nasty things to your windscreen. The last tow driver insisted that I sign a waiver because he supposedly had experienced (or heard of) windscreens being ripped off at speed. I told him I'd sign anything, as we were close to my house and I knew from previous experience that at 45mph it wasn't going to be a problem. BTW, he never showed me the document. If your reverse tow will involve interstate speeds, you might want to think this one over some more. I also used the hinges on the wind wings and bent them backward so that they wouldn't flop around.

(2) The nylon strap will be your friend. It eliminates the heavy chains that the tow operator will clank onto your chassis. The chain will also rub on your gas tank, and if they don't get the angle correct, it will push up into your gas tank and possibly leave a dent. This almost happened to me and I had to scream at the operator to stop so we could reset the angle of the car. The nylon strap gives you insurance and eliminates the chains under the car. Just buy one that can handle 3,000lbs and you should be good to go. Luckily for me, the Superformance has a welded in loop/tab on the rear crossmember and makes for a perfect attachment point. If your car does not have a good built-in provision for this, you may want to consider adding something BEFORE you get into a pickle. The track guys will tell you how to do this best.

(3) I just learned about these after my second tow recently. These rigs are built to handle exotics like Lambos, Ferraris, etc. Heck, even my daily driver C5 Z06 sits lower than my Cobra! The bed actually splits into two sections and lays virtually flat on the pavement. You just push the car by hand onto the bed, tie her down and the operator does the rest.

Getting the car off the rig can be touch and go just as much as getting it up there. TAKE YOUR TIME and make sure you have plenty of 4x4 and 2x4 to create a gradual transition. On my last tow I had no more than 1/2" of clearance to the oil cooler shroud when I was inching the car down. Again, take it slow and don't be concerned about the driver that is worried about moving to the next call.

If the driver did a good job and treated you well, a nice cash tip never hurt. The first driver I had knew his $#@t and I was more than happy to give him and his buddy $40 for a great job. This second operator was an absolute azz and he got squat.

Also, AAA offers an optional 100 mile radius tow coverage (their "plus" coverage option). It's only something like $15-20 more per year over the base coverage and is worth every penny.

In closing, it's YOUR CAR and you have rights. Don't let some grease monkey tow operator call the shots. Be nice to them and tell them what is the best way to tow the vehicle. If they refuse to listen, then refuse their service.

Regards,

-Dean

Thanks for the insight Dean. I haven't had to have my Cobra towed yet (knock on wood) but I'm sure it'll happen sometime. %/

In the meantime, I'm going to print your suggestions out & keep them in my glovebox for future reference!:D

Thanks again,
Randy

Dean,

That is good information and keeping a nylon tow strap is a must I think. I always had one and I also had a piece of steel formed into a squared U the width of the strap welded under the rear of my car to a frame cross brace. That worked perfectly for the one time that I did have to have it towed onto a flat bed. fortunately the operator that did mine was familiar with low cars and the end of his tow bed had a kind of sloping lip to it that he just hooked two wide steel ramps to and they extended out enough that there was no problem with getting the car onto the truck.

Ron

I have had mine towed twice by the same company and they use webbed straps that go over the wheels to secure it to the bed.

Dean, a short version..., after 13K miles, I called my first roll-back last week. Simply told him to bring two boards 2X6X3ft, I had towels and nylon straps in the trunk from planning on 'what would I need', and most importanly, I took charge.

Red...GREAT post, and I thought I'd share something with the forum. I have had a flat bed tow once, when a clutch slave cylinder broke, but I was able to drive the car onto the flatbed with the starter motor, but I always worried about the 'scuffing' of a rope/chain attached anywhere to the front of the car. Once I finished the build (a Lonestar), I made a separate piece that I always carry in the trunk for such an eventuality.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...0&ppuser=26828

(I swear to god you'd think it would be frigging easy to post a frigging image into this frigging forum...LOL. I have a Masters degree AND a PhD in Computer Science and I cannot ever get it to work...aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagh...still, here's a picture of it through this link...grrrrrr...I LOVE this forum, but there MUST be easier ways to post a frigging image...:D. I have read every frigging post under the 'upload images' search and I STILL cannot frigging do it!!!!! I have tried every frigging 'attach this', 'post that' frigging button on the frigging post reply screen :( )

If you detect a slight note of frustration, YOU ARE FRIGGING RIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol

I drilled two holes at the appropriate place in the crossbar of the chasis at the front, and (please god never!!!) that I have to have a tow, I can attach this piece with the two bolts and the large eyehole on the end of the screwthread (1/2" thread diameter) extends a couple of inches in front of the nose. I can attach a rope/strap through the hole .

Hope this helps someone.

Glyn

PS if one of the administrators reads this, can you email me the instructions as to how to include a file (less that 39K) in a posting. I can get it to post to my gallery, THAT is not the problem...thanks

Glyn, here you go:

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...2322_small.jpg

FWIW, MBA in Finance. You just have the wrong degree(s)! :LOL:

-Dean

P.S. Great idea and contribution to this thread...that's why I created it (to share ideas). Just pull up your photo in your gallery, right click on it, go to "properties" and then copy/paste the complete "address", and then add a [img] to the front and a [/img] to the back. Attempt to reply to this post via the Quote button and you'll see what it looks like as one continuous string. Easy stuff.

Dean...LOL.. . I tried THAT exact method and spent 2 hours NOT getting it to work. What, you have MAGIC fingers????? :D

Glyn

PS, thanks for the tip...I will experiment again!!!

Glyn

Just go to your gallery and click on the photo you want to include in a thread. As you click on the picture it will open up to one big picture on your monitor with some info below the picture.

Then highlight the location of the file which is below the pic with a left click so it is blue (I modified the file location below so it would show up as text, rather than the photo).

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...2322_small.jpg

Do a right click and select copy. Then go back to your post you are writing and position the cursor where you want the photo to appear. The do a right click and select paste. Then when you complete the post, it shows up as a photo like ...

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...2322_small.jpg

It helps if you open 2 windows. One for the post you are composing and a second window with your gallery open.

On the other hand, if you want to ATTACH a file that is NOT in your gallery, please refer to this Word document that I wrote.

http://home.comcast.net/~wtm442/Club...Club Cobra.doc

To make the process of being stranded not as painful, I've found that it's best to adopt the practice used by British car owners, you know, the ones using Joseph Luca electrics.:LOL: Unfortunately, the Cobra trunk, albeit relatively large, isn't big enough to carry all you'll need. Therefore, a cell phone and AAA card may be your best friends. The tow strap is a good thing, too. Add to these a canvas pouch with the basic tools: screwdrivers, pliers, flashlight, wire, tape, knife, revolver:eek:, a small throw rug, oil and whatever I missed. You may be able to fix the problem yourself.:rolleyes:

When I had to have my car flat-beded, we pulled it on forward. Fortunately, the driver was prepared. He had two lengths of 2X6's that served as ramps. They worked very well, both for the Cobra and GT40, although it was close with the later. We attached the strap to the lower control arm on each.

If you do have your car pulled on backwards, don't forget that there's a ramp problem at that end, too. It's easy to forget the end that's going on last. But an advantage with going on backwards is it's easier to attach the strap and clear the body work. Still, keep an eye on the other end as the car is pulled on.

It helps greatly to have a good operator. My first experience was after having my car 3 days. Clutch master went out. I was the one without experience and the operator babied me and the car through it. Flat bed with the front of the car loaded first. He used a 4x4 across the front end under the frame to shim the strap well enough below the front cowel of the oil cooler to clear, and just inched the car up onto the bed. There may have been some 2x6 involved to ramp the front tires too. As soon as we hit the road he was on his radio to his fellow drivers saying "I wish I had my camera today, You won't believe what I have on the back of my truck". He was my hero that day. The guy who came to tow me to the tranny shop wasn't so good. I had to instruct him how to get it up on the truck without damage. Same tow company, different operator.

John

Excellent point that I forgot to mention in my orginal post. I had between 1/2" and 1" of room to spare both times. Just go reeeeeaaaaallllly sssslllooowww.

This gets back to my last paragraph. Be nice but TAKE COMMAND. A tow operator is SUPPOSED to know what he/she is doing. The fact is that with our cars 99% of them DON'T!

When tow #3 ever comes along (and I'm sure it will at some point), and I can't get the split bed option, I think I'll open with "I'm going to help you through this to ensure that my car gets hauled away without any damage and you get a sterling performance rating from AAA. Are we both on the same page here?"

-Dean

P.S. God forbid I get stuck on a freeway or a place where you can't turn the car around. Then you're at the mercy of a front pull tow (especially with the CHP breathing down your neck and wanting to get your vehicle off their interstate).