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That's what I thought! In fact I have had my car 20 years and 55000 miles and changed pads twice....and the discs once The sideshaft comes off ,,4 nuts a long extension ,an air gun and 1,,2,,3,,. The caliper does take a little effort (this is to change the discs) but..I also used to service Jags and the book does tell you to drop the rear suspension ,but I have done many jags pads including the handbroke pads without removing the whole rear end, its not the simplest job but.......on a Cobra there is a lot more space.
I think the unsprung weight advantage outweighs the servicability of inboard versus outboard brakes. thats a lot of pounds hanging at the end of the axle...**) Quote:
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HI Doug. ive been thinking of doing the same for a couple of years but due to cost of tanks food i havent. heres an idea ive also wanted to do. look in the era manual i sent you , they sell a removable rear bulk head door just for this reason im sure someone can make it work. call me the next time you are in seattle. Bob
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Hi Doug
Here's some info on the rear brake setup. When using the Wilwood rear mount kit you must make sure there is enough clearance behind the rear, on Contemporaries the tank can be a problem, the emergency brake location can also be a problem with some chassis, Machining is also required on the late diffs 68>. My advice would be to keep the original Girlings and either put the gas slotted rotors on or spend more $ and install the vented Girling conversion. Both of these will be a lot less work than trying to install the wilwoods The Girlings are a bit heavier but in my opinion are a very good caliper and your talking about sprung weight so there may be other locations on the car that you can save weight. Mike Bontoft CWI inc |
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