would a saucer of milk help?:D

As any well intentioned moderator would say

"You guys are getting off topic and it has nothing to do with the posters initial inquirey".

Well, I can't argue with that. However, I was "at rest" when I posted that last off topic post.:p

My Daytona (Shell Valley #27) motor use to run HOT! :mad: ~180* on the freeway, +220* in stop/go traffic! Full race cam, underdrive pulley, built for the track ... very hot in the car!
Just had the 347 rebuilt with high perf street cam, added new fan shroud, new ~2700 cfm fan, new Mr. Gasket 180* t-stat, new two speed fan controller, new larger serpentine crank pulley, new reserve/overflow tank -
Fan comes on at 180 and great in stop/go traffic now, up to 185 so far (temp outside in 50-60-low 70's), and freeway runs about 150*. I'm sure the freeway temp will come up in the summer ... (but only 200 miles on new motor so far):)
http://gi94.photobucket.com/groups/l...rch2009028.jpg
http://gi94.photobucket.com/groups/l...rch2009027.jpg

Ron: Your Coupe looks fantastic. The issue at hand is different from what you were experiencing however. You still have the bypass sytem active in your application.

The issue being discussed here is restrcted to those of us with the dual water outlet Weber manifold. The problem is the Bypass system is eliminated because one of the 5/8" diameter outlets (heater hose/bypass hose on the water pump) is inaccesable and subsequently eliminated to allow for the water manifold between the 2 intake manifold outlets and to the radiator to be fitted. The remaining nipple (1 of 2 on the water pump) is then attached to the Harrison style tank in front of the water pump (FIA style application) and becomes the fill point for the cooling system. Some including myself have tried installing a thermostat in the upper radiator hose, I have intalled the thermostat numerous ways, with 0,1,2, & 4 holes (3/16"). It will reach operating temp of 180 in the driveway but quickly drops to 140-150 after driving a very short distance, and will not recover until pulling up to a light after driving some distance (several miles) and then drops again. I have tried to run it without a thermostat and it NEVER gets warm. What I have not done and would ask if others have with any success, used a freeze plug with (for instance) a 5/8" hole drilled in it put into the upper hose???

My next project which I am on the verge of doing after having made the pieces this week, is to weld a nipple on the water manifold near where the top radiator hose attaches (right behind the inline thermostat) and run a 1/2" hose accross the front of the engine and tie into the lower radiator hose, right near where it attaches to the water pump (I have a 1 3/4" fabricated aluminum tube that I will weld another nipple onto.)
I have thought this through carefully and believe it will cure our problems.
I will report back as to the results. Fingers are crossed!

Ok guys, I solved the problem. I installed a by pass hose from the Weber dual outlet water neck to the water pump. Had to do some creative plumbing. See the post on 48 IDA Weber coolant bypass. I dumped the Robert Shaw thermostat with the three 3/16 holes drilled in it, as I beleive this was part of the problem. The three holes were letting enough water to by pass the thermostat so the engine never warmed up. I replaced it with a Moroso thermostat which is the same as the Robert Shaw but without the holes.

The car warms up to 180 and on the open road it stays between 180 to 190. Stop at a light and it stays at 180. This was on an 80 degree day with the manual switch for the fan switched off. Problem solved.

My thanks to Rick Parker who kept saying we need to rig up a bypass hose!