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1/4" hole=.250"? try .008" that is the clearance in your thrust bearings. try .005" for rod and main bearings. Massive kudos to you for investigating further and not just taking advice, in all seriousness, excellent effort!!
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OK , now I have to go and find the smallest drill bit at my hardware store...I did think of that also, Honest I did.Back to the drawring board.:CRY:
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you might be better using aluminium foil and cutting a slit in it with a razor blade and then do the drip test
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I will do both. In reality the way most of these cars are takin care of and the low miles between oil changes most oil would prob. be just fine. But its still nice to know the facts..
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Trust me I am no expert, check out bob the oil guys website. I paid roush for the engine I will comply with their lubrication requirements.
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Looked at but I really couldnt find anything about sae50 ?
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Found this article.This study shows that artificially polymer thickened oil (Multi-Grade)
will tend to have a higher temporary viscosity loss (shear) under load than an oil who's base is the same viscosity (straight weight oil). In otherwords, multi-grades tend to fail, break down, loose viscosity when it is needed most... under load, whereas a straight weight oil will not. This sounds like its sayin that multi grade is inferior to strait wght oil ? http://resources.metapress.com/pdf-p...0&size=largest |
The majority of your engine wear occurs in the first 5 minutes of driving, first you cylinder walls are cold, your pistons are hot, soooo, your pistons generate heat due to friction until the block gets to the optimium temp 200f for combustion and clearances between piston and wall are optimized. If your oil is too thick during this time and not lubricate the rings and cylinder wall bingo excessive wear. You are absolutely correct straight is better if you run your engine around the clock and never shut it off, but we drive 15 minutes to work, to the grocery store, hot cold hot cold, you get the picture.
Remeber gm,ford, toyato, etc all warrant their cars for 50K miles and each and everyone use multiweight, most today use 5w20!!! If you were running the indy 500 use the straight weight with an oil pan heater, if you drive lilke most of us use the multigrade. Quote:
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If you just have to use the straight weight the optimuim weight is 30wt not 50wt.
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I did finish my experiment and came to the following conclusions.
1)i would get bored in a lab 2)we rarely get a 100% conclusive answer on anything 3)we donts needs no edumacation to conduct chemical testing 4)sae50 and 20w50 taste the same 5)20w is less filling 6)r governmant sucks 7) I find it VERY,VERY difficult to find any diff. in flow tests. They appear to flow at the same rate. If thats the case then why not promote sae40 or 50 for summer use. If it flows the same above 60deg. than what is the problem ? I need some hard evidence..... |
Sparks
I think you should run what ever oil you want to. It's your motor and your oil. Dwight |
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My cover is blown ! Damit
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Hey Sparks,
FYI - I was just watching the NHRA Southern Nationals that I Tivo'd last weekend. They had a segment on oil. They said that the top fuel guys run 70wt oil in their motors. It looks like molasses. :LOL: |
hey there Sparks, lemme go out on a limb here... you're out of work..... aren't you. Just a guess,but it's kinda easy to see. Get well soon.
MEATMASTER .......baste me baby, baste me good........ |
very observant!
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I run the same stuff Ron does - 15W-50 Mobil 1 and have not had a problem. It is the oil recommended by the NASCAR engine builders in the area.
There will always be 10 different ideas by 10 different people. Doesn't mean one is better than another ( other than plain stupid ). :D :D |
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