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Jag IRS breaking axels...Help
I have a Jag IRS with a 9" head so solved 1 problem and moved it to axels. I am breaking axel shafts drag racing, dose anyone know what material is best to make replacements stub axels from??
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You must have a ton of horsepower. Good traction, too.
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Another crazy Kiwi putting the welly to it. This is the fix for it at the bottom of the page.
Shortening the Jaguar pieces Bear in mind the gears are big torque multipliers so don't be using driveshaft tubing, you want easily 3 or 4 times that wall with a seamless DOM 1020 or similar alloy. |
Yep you will break them with that many cubes, We/I built a 9" IRS for the Ondrack TVR [ classic racer-Hampton Downs/SFOS in feb each year] with SBF 346 cu in & it breaks 31 spline stubs out of the diff, as long as you use U-joints in the half shafts this will continue to be a problem, although going to 35 spline might help. To put it simply when you pop the clutch & the car squats at the rear the u-joints will not have equal angles which introduces a momentary mechanical bind & increases the actual load applied to the axles. you might be able to reduce this factor by repositioning the CWP unit height to minimise this effect, but that may introduce other problems in doing so. Best way is to convert to CV type half shafts to eliminate the bind.
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1 Attachment(s)
Photos of axle breakage
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So if you convert to CV axles, how does that work with the axle being the upper control arm? CV joints generally do not like to be load bearing.
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That's it the independant Jag rear is just not designed for drags, now a nice road course is fun.! .....An extra top control arm? , cantilever? Maybe switch to a live axle for drags. I also think cvs but you will need an upper arm of some sort.
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Years ago, George Petrus built bullet proof Jaguar IRS for Contemporary Cobras.
http://www.cobraracing.com/index.html |
To answer your question, 300m is the stuff to use for making stub axles... Check Ebay, Mark Williams often sells offcuts of bar stock
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I can't tell what is wrong with the first shaft, but the second shaft will continue to break due to the change in diameter. That is a high stress zone. The last shaft looks like it wasn't heat treated properly and was too soft. You should be around 50Rc depending on what material was used.
The hardness will somewhat dictate the strength. You could very easily get away with 4340. Personally, the Jag rear end wasn't designed for what you are doing. Stick a solid axle in it and beat the heck out of it. |
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Joyridin, sorry I might have confused the issue, the pics I put up are not those of the car/original poster, they are from a car that I have been involved with. however I agree totally with your thoughts regarding suitability of the Jag rearend for drag racing. |
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Oh well.... |
I feel your pain....
I have a little experience in this field. First this....
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...352/break1.jpg Then this....... http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...0508-00010.jpg Got rid of these, thinking that was the problem...... http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r.../newslicks.jpg Then did this on Avons with an off idle launch..... http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...-21-26_106.jpg What have I learned from all this self inflicted carnage????? These cars are no good for drag racing. :eek::CRY: |
Forget it guys, this OP was on 24 04 2012, posted same post on 4 seperate forums same day , has not been heard from since...go figure
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