I use nothing but Purolator Pure 1 or K&N oil filters.

Purolator Pure1. One of the best filters for the price.

Wix Racing filter for me.... **)

Non bypass filter tech
 

I use the Canton spin on housing with the 8 micron non bypass filter element:

http://www.cmfilters.com/tech.cfm
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product

Good Luck!

If your adapter will also accept GM filters, there is a huge 1.5qt filter that you can get from NAPA. As I recall the thread was the same but the gasket was slightly smaller.

I'll see if I can find the part no.

I called and talked for quite a while with the owner of the company that makes the Reusable filter in RedCSX1's post above. He made a statement that stopped me cold. That the oil in a normal oil filter does NOT pass through the paper in the element. I consider myself fairly well enlightened when it comes to these internal combustion engines that we all dearly love but I did not realize that was the case! Have any of you ever stopped to think of this? I was under the belief that the oil enters through the outer holes in the filter perimeter passes through the paper media and exits through the hole in the center after leaving behind any particulates, dirt, or metal bits in the outer pleats.
He made it sound as if a regular filter is in some state of bypass all the time and that is how the oil gets through the filter body. While doing so the oil deposits the contaminants in the creases of the pleats as it passes over the media surface. After listening to this individual (an self proclaimed Engineer) I was impressed with what he had to say. We discussed oil types, lack of zinc & phosphates and many other things. He did not attempt to talk over my head but was sharing valuable information much of which I was able to understand.
BTW it appears to be a very high quality item, and it is offered in many different sizes for cars, planes and most engine applications. I plan on getting one soon.

Any one else have any comments?

Who makes this filter?
Rodger

The accusump that Rick uses combined with the reusable filter used by redcsx1 seems to be the way to go.I am also interested to know who makes that filter and if it would work on an existing remote filter housing?
Ross

mk2gt40, RodgerH,
There are a wide variety of billet and stainless filters on the market. I liked the configuration of the System One and the choices in filtering capability offered, and I wanted black and the housing was finned.
Do a Google search on reusable oil filters and you can review a bunch of options.

Reply to Lineslinger
 

Don't want to hijack this thread, but can you PM me concerning a quality paint shop in the St. Louis area? Couldn't find any other contact information. Bob

PM sent last evening.

Wow...read thru this thread in amazement. I have always used the FL-1a and have never had any issues at all. No wild engine wear (tracked or not), no 'blown' filters (60-80 psi), and no mysterious loosening while running. I don't think my '66 has ever had anything BUT the FL-1a and the little hipo just keeps a-runnin' :LOL:
Do you guys really believe these filters are necessary, or is it more car porn?

All I know is the research that others have done indicates that the "Wal-Mart" and cheapo filters aren't what we should be using. That includes Fram, and those made by Fram, and just generally those you pay $5 or less for. Of course, you can pay more and get less too. For example, the filter evaluator guy (http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...lterstudy.html) disassembled the various NAPA filters and found they were the same inside, but the prices weren't. Filters must be a lucrative business to have the number of scammers in it.

Here are his opinions based on disassembly and evaluation thereof:

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar.../opinions.html

All I know is the research that others have done indicates that the "Wal-Mart" and cheapo filters aren't what we should be using.
Of course not! Who would build anything they had pride in and use junk to maintain it?
That includes Fram, and those made by Fram, and just generally those you pay $5 or less for.
The FL-1a (spec'd by the same guys that engineered the engines) sells for $4.29 retail hereabouts. Of course, the fact that they have been used since the 50's, cover millions of cars and can be ordered/sold in pallet quantities may have something to do with it. (Knize) disassembled the various NAPA filters and found they were the same inside, but the prices weren't.
Somebody will certainly make a fortune off of this one....IF this is true, NAPA is guilty of fraud, and since they are a nationwide co., throw the feds in the mix. I would imagine that the filters may LOOK the same to the uneducated eye (like mine), but are very different in actuality. Different micron filtering maybe? Number of folds? Boils down to trusting NAPA or a guy in his basement with a well designed website and a thesaurus.

Here are his opinions based on disassembly and evaluation thereof:

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar.../opinions.html

EXACTLY: His OPINIONS! What is his backround? Is he qualified to make his comparisons? I don't mean to sound the way this probably does, but
I take the web with a large dose of salt....including the various experts lurking about (like the 'oil guy'). I tried to make the point that I think most of us 'overkill' our cars, and than look for the justifications later. :LOL:
I see full tilt competition cars using the FL-1a (including the Rotella standards of yore on Cobras, GT350's and GT40's) and somehow we talk ourselves into assuming that it isn't good enough for a suburban blaster? Makes me wonder, thats all....

I'm certainly not an oil/oil filter expert,so I'll just state my real world expeirences................

Sometime ago, there was a similar thread and the Fram filter was supposed to be junk, they touted the AC Delco filter as one of the best....So, being a little worried, cause I use only Fram filters from Wal Mart in all my stuff, I went out and bought some AC Delco filters...
Here's what I found: In my Toyota company car which at the time had about 300,000 miles on it and nothing but Rotella T 15/40 oil and a Fram filter in it from it's first oil change since new......when I changed my oil at the next interval I used the same oil and then the AC Delco filter and the next morning on startup, the motor "knocked" for at least 10 seconds, I revved it to maybe 1500 rpms and it went away, after that it was o-k.... after sitting overninght it did the same thing for three days in a row, so I took off the the Delco and put a new Fram filter on, never has done it since....The car will hit 400,000 miles in a few months and the only thing done on the engine was to change the valve cover gasket..... That's the third company car with over 250,000 miles with Fram filters and Rotella oil and none have ever had the engines worked on, so I guess I'll keep using those cheap, no-good Frams from Wal Mart.......

On my race car I use the Fram HP series filter and cut them open to check them out and the motor at the oil changes, never seen anything unusual or anything to make me switch brands.......

Nothing scientific here, just my real world results..........

David

Wix racing filters
 

I was looking at the wix racing filter...part 51515R and it flows 28 gpm but the micron rating is 61. The standard wix street filter ...part 51515 flows 7-9 gpm but the micron rating is 19. 61 microns seems too large for a street motor.

And theres the rub! So many of us put 'race parts' on street cars thinking its an upgrade, but not thinking that race motors have a much more limited life between rebuilds!

Zacctly, high volume/high pressure oil pumps and fuel pumps and under-drive pulley sets and other "race" parts are designed for dedicated race engines with certain rpm ranges and bearing clearances, they are not designed nor suited for street cars...In some instances, they do more harm than good!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NASCAR enignes are rebuilt after every race,road race engines are rebuilt after as little as 30 hours of run time, I stretch mine to 50 hours. There are many things on my road race motor I would never put on my street motor..........

David

Yes Rick...
While I don't think that the oil "never" permiates the paper of the filter, I do believe 100% that filters with a bypass valve (even "racing" filters that have heavier bypass springs for higher PSI pumps) DO INDEED "bypass" quite regularly, even during street use...
I have seen more than one circumstance to back that statement up, and I am not an engineer nor do I play one on TV...
This is why I use a Canton, no bypass type and I KNOW that this same filter saved my much engine damage when I ground a steel dizzy/camshaft gear into a fine steel powder once...

Pat
ONLY a no-bypass filter for my Cobra...

I hear ya' 427Sharpe. I have an old friend from my SCOF days that had an issue with Bilstein race shocks. The thinking was that if it were race shocks, they would make his car go alot faster. Fortunately for him, his shocks would fracture and/or break while being trailered to races or cobra events. He's lucky it never happened while going 80+ mph on a road course.

Just go with the Fram, AC Delco, or Mobil filters for me. They've worked this long for Christ sakes, why switch now? Beside my Corvette manual specifically calls out for AC Delco filters, as I doubt they would recommend it under warranty otherwise.

McD00/ Long live the Cobra