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4 link to 3 link using a toque arm?
Has anyone tried converting a 4 link rear to a 3 link using a Toque Arm on a 9" Ford?
Jon |
do you mean like a parallel bar 4 link? or a triangulated 4 limk?
Anyway, look up some firebird or Camaro with 9inchers with there torque arm-you will need something to keep it in the center-watts, etc the Monza in my avacar had a 3 link in it but it was VERY different and would take an entirely different center structure in the frame -if a car was being build from scratch to utilize it, it could/would be a very capable system for getting the power to the ground . Mine worked at record setting capability levels for drag racing, don't have any idea how it would handle on a road course-------- |
Triangulated 4 link
I was looking at the ones for Camaros,
I would need a t arm shorter them 32" So i am also looking at Fay's watts link With a 3 link setup Jon |
Look at Factory Fives or Hurricanes. Both use two lower arms frame to axle. One upper arm to set the pinion angle and a panhard rod to center the axle.
Hurricane's http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ne3rdlink5.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ane3rdlink.jpg |
Pictures/Questions
Do you know the length of the upper and lower control arms?
Any other pictures of the panhard bar and how it connects to the diff?? Thnx Jon |
Here you go. Bracket welded to the lower shock mount. No idea of the lengths. I do not own one; just a fan of hurricane.
Pictures from a collection of other guys builds. I believe the upper link should be at the same angle as the lower arms. The object is to follow the same arch as the suspension moves up and down. If not the pinion angle will change as the suspension moves up and down. However with limited travel it may just be a little. Check out Factory5s. I believe their upper bracket is longer for less pinion angle change. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ne3rdlink2.jpg |
I changed my NAF from 4 bar parallel link with a pan hard rod to a satchell link design. Which is a 4 bar triangulated, with the lower arms angled and the upper ones straight, with no pan hard rod. Pictures in my gallery.
Paul |
The best site for covering this subject is: Rear Suspension & Geometry for Track Performance - Lateral-g Forums
Really a good read for anyone with a Cobra. I thought someone posted this already. |
FFR Three Link
This is a good video showing how Factory Fives three link is designed. Notice their pinion angle adjusting arm is longer, which I believe is more correct.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_n5ZJJHrjE&index=7&list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_n5ZJJHrjE&index=7&list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB[/ame] |
Thnx
Great Info. My only concern for the moment is that my lower control arms are located more towards the center section
Not towards the brakes.... Not sure if that makes a difference Jon |
Read the link I gave you and that will answer all your questions. No, it will not work with the lower arms close to the center. Those would have to be changed to.
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How far apart are they? As short as the drive shafts are in these cars, if you don't have an IRS set up, it is VERY crucial to get the geometry perfect in the small area that the suspension travel can tolerate. A difference of an inch here or there, a few degrees of angle change, an inch or so of spring compression will have drastic results on not only handling under all driving conditions but also just keeping the parts under the floor instead of thru the floor or scattered in the next lane-------
If you still have the time in your build, please consider changing to an IRS set up ----- |
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