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I have a few build questions (with pics!)
1.) Lower Radiator Mount
If you look at the pic, it looks like the mount was fabricated quite a bit shorter than the length required to fit on the forward part of the frame. The legs have to be "pried" to be mounted. Did your builds look like this? http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...158%20Copy.jpg Also, for the mount, the build manual says to mount this with a 1/4" self tapper. Do you use the shorty or the larger one? (I`m thinking shorty) http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...160%20Copy.jpg 2. Seat tracks I`m no where near ready in my build to mount the seat tracks BUT, I was just looking ahead. If you check out the pic, you`ll see the mounting studs for the seat tracks are too short in length to mount them to the frame. I was thinking of maybe bolting down some kind of steel plate on the floor of the cockpit and mount the seat and lap belts directly to that. How did you all mount your seat tracks? http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...157%20Copy.jpg That`s all I have for now. I`m sure there`ll be more later. :LOL: |
Not sure about A&C radiator however many replicas have no seat track brackets.
I would suggest welding in brackets or making a bolt on bracket which would be from below to add secure footing to your seat mount. |
H-rod
The rad mount is correct, not sure why it was designed that way, but I just mounted it. I also did not use the self tapping screws. I drilled thru and mounted with bolts and nuts. I had seat tracks bolted thru the fiberglass with large washers. I went with new seats after a while because of no support or cushion in A$C seats and I mounted them right to the floor so no adjustment. The glass floor is about 1/4 to 3/8" thick. Maybe others will chime in from A$C forum Jim |
Quote:
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For the radiator bracket, i made spacers and drilled and tapped threads in the frame.
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Radiator Bracket
I modified my bracket incase I needed to remove the radiator. I cut the bottom support off and then reattached it using a piece of 1" aluminum angle. One other Mod I wish I had done was to of had a drain welded into the bottom of the tank so you wouldn't have to remove the lower hose. If you haven't bought a radiator you can call Howe Racing and they will do that Mod in house for you.
The floor of the A&C is thick 1/4-3/8" and you seat tracks can be secured to it using fender washers..... One other suggestion; don't use a Panhard Bar, you have a triangulated 4 line and it will cause bind! Jon |
Appreciate all the responses.
Let me ask this, when you mount the radiator, did you all put down some kind of rubber "pad" or something underneath the radiator to minimize vibration? Once again, I`m nowhere near ready to install this in the car. Just looking and planning ahead. |
Yes,
1/4'' hard rubber pads on bottom and under upper clamps. Also, recommend upper and lower drain cocks on radiator. besides Howe you can go online or speak to people at Griffin. They did what I wanted, you can even decide what sides and angles as well as fitting sizes for in and out connections. Jim |
I already got my radiator from HOWE.
It has no drain petcocks on it. I didn't think of adding them. OOPS! |
Radiator
You should be able to have a radiator shop weld a bong on the lower side of the tank. 1/4" rubber Mat like he said
Jon |
I'd probably have a bung welded in and put the bong in the trunk next to the hukka.............:)
Tim |
H-Rod
What I found while building my car was that I thought, planned, questioned myself or tried to ask someone if I doubted what I was planning to do. I wasn't aware of this forum when I began my build, this is a great source of information. Most on this site will respond with good information. Hope your build goes smoothly and you get to enjoy the thrill of driving these cars soon. Jim |
If you are going to bolt your seats through the Fiberglas, I drill 20mm holes and made up dowels so the fiberglass isn't crushed.
Some radiators also need to be earthed to avoid electrolysis. \JD |
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