Thanks for the tips.

I noticed that either the cowl hoop/brace is slightly off or the body has some irregularities. The hoop really wants to contact the drivers fender, and the pass side "foot" is not flat on the floor (about a 3/8 " gap between the bolt hole and the floor).

The braces to tie the hoop into the firewall were also a couple of inches off. They were nowhere near close, and I thought I might have the hoop positioned incorrectly but it's the only place where it can work with the door hinges lining up properly. The windshield brackets also collided and wouldn't fit until I slightly elongates the slots in the body and clearanced a section of the brackets.

Drilling/tap the doors was a bit nerve wracking but I think it came out well. I really took my time on that as I didn't want to punch through the door. I still need to adjust the hinges and plates to get the doors to line up better but it's awesome seeing it with the windshield and doors on. It's starting to look like a Cobra now! If the garage didn't look like it had been turned upside down and hit by a tornado I would have taken a picture.


Some other recent progress is that I have my steering plan figured out and mostly implemented. I had to use three universal joints and a single support bearing to make it from the rack, around the Coyote, and to the column. I thought I was going to have to use a double joint to make the bend around the valve cover but it looks like the regular single-joint flaming river part will make it without binding. These DOHC modulars are so wide! Before going with the Coyote I was originally going to go with either a FE or a SBF and every time I run into one of these clearance issues I keep asking myself why I didn't :LOL:


Saltshaker, are you using a booster with your wilwood MC?

I used the wildwood pedal assembly and remote masters, that might save you some room.

Thanks Rcobrakit. You're running non-boosted brakes, right?

I have a Mustang pedal assembly that looks like it would fit nicely in the footbox area but I'm still working out the master cylinder and booster config.

My setup is without a booster. I have 4 12" wildwood disks and will stop on a dime and give you change. Richie

Booster
 

No need with Wilwood’s....stops on a dime with no fade.
Jon

I'm going to have to check out the Wilwood MC then. I have the 12" 4 piston Wilwood Dynalite on the front and a Summit single piston 11.25" disk setup on the rear. I'm not sure what diameter the pistons are in the rear so I'll have to check to see what MC will work with this config.

In hindsight I probably should have gotten the Wilwood in the rear to begin with. When I looked earlier I was searching for Dynalites for the 9", and I did not see one with a parking brake option. It looks like Wilwood does make a kit for the 9" that includes a parking brake but it uses a drum brake for the parking function.

Wilwood
 

That’s what I’m using. What are you going to use for a parking brake? Does your state require one to pass inspection??
Jon

They will want to see a parking brake to pass it. My current setup does have a parking brake provision, and it's a mechanical actuation of the caliper via traditional cables. I like this style parking brake for its simplicity, but this particular system is really heavy. I might end up swapping it out to a Wilwood system if it doesn't work out.

Bias brake valve
 

I would add a bias brake valve to the rear brakes ..not expensive.
Jon

I certainly plan on having one to tune the balance.

Looking at my pedals, it looks like I have a 3:1 ratio, which is pretty low. Out of curiosity, what ratio pedals did you use with your 7/8 MC? Is it s tandem MC?

Pedals
 

I used A&C’s pedals and I think I drilled a hole to make 5 to 1..easy to do
Did you cut the hole for the pedal assembly?
Jon

I haven't made the cuts yet as I'm still planning out which pedals and brake config I'm going to need. The clutch is also a cable clutch, so Willwood pedals are out of the picture as they're hyd only.

I found some pictures


Xact chromo flywheel:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=18017&thumb=1

Exedy Clutch disk:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=18023&thumb=1

TR3650 Trans after cleanup, prime, and mid way through 1st coat of paint:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=18024&thumb=1

Coyote intake drying:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=18022&thumb=1

Cylinder head with VC removed for painting:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=18020&thumb=1

Super simple and effective hyd roller DOHC valvatrain:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=18021&thumb=1

Color Chip (I painted a ceramic tile) that was sent to A&C:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=18019&thumb=1

What was delivered. The lighting makes this the comparison of color match maybe a bit tough, but I think they did a great job. The quality of the fiberglass work is really superb. I have lurked this forum since 2015, and read many posts about A&C's fiberglass work and gel coat being excellent. I'd say what I read was absolutely accurate about their work being very good, and I'm quite happy with the quality of the body.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=18018&thumb=1

Hts clutch
 

Use a hyd church... 1960 ford pu slave..,about $25 naps and a 7/8 Wildwood mc
I made a bracket that bolts to the block and the space attaches to it. Very easy set up.
Jon

Saltsaker, did you just drill a hole up higher on the pedal arm causing the pushrod to connect higher and increase the ratio?

I sent you a PM the other day asking some questions about your brake setup.

Thanks for you help! Trying to get my brakes to be where I want them.

I suppose I could consider converting to a hyd setup. Is that slave a pull type that you used?

Slave
 

It is a push slave
Jon