Antique&Collectible build help
 

Ok Guys,

My 302 is set in my chassis. I am happy with the measurements: front to back, vertical, and level side to side.

Here is my dilemma: When I level the transmission to line up with the differential, the universal motor mount from A&C (c-channel with mounting holes)can not be bolted to to the frame brackets. The transmission is so low that the mount is below the brackets on the chassis.

1. Did I do something wrong?
2. Do I need spacers to hold the transmission mount to that universal mount?

Any advice or experience would be appreciated!:confused:

Jer

Jer, One thing I can tell you is that your transmission does not line up in the same axes with the diff. It lines up aprox. 2" up and parallel to the diff. See if that makes any difference. You may have to raise your trans. brace.
Tim

Jerry: I have a 1/2" worth of washers between the bracket and the frame rails. Remember you want a little bit of angle so that when you jump on it the diff wants to torque down. ( I think thats right) also, the suspension wants to sit down under acceleration as well (Squats) You'll love it when it does that.
JIm

front of differential goes upward under torque

Ok guys here is my dilema: Do I have the engine situated to high,or do I need spacers for the trannyh mount? Any one with experience with A & C kits I appreciate your advice. Jer

This is the only shot I could find of my tranny crossmember. It doesn't show much. Sorry....

http://www.priveye.com/cobra/Holly.jpg

Here's a shot from the side of the installation:

http://www.priveye.com/cobra/Side1.jpg

Do a little web surffin and read about pinion angle and how to measure. Rather than my description of step by step go to Alston Chassis or several other sites to read the pro's.
You need to laod chassis and then check pinion angle, then check driveshaft angle.
Engine and tranny as mounted in chassis is pretty much a factor determined by manufacturer of chassis. The rear is then mounted in chassis and adjusted to proper relationship with 4 link or what ever your means as purchased/designed, if you can not obtain the proper pinion angle and centering in frame then that problem must be corrected.
All centerlines and angles can be checked with good old plumb bob, level and angle finder tool. The new lasers built into many levels make the job much easier but still takes time and patience.
Adding preload to the rear will make it go straight under hard throttle but too much makes little things like turning a bit twitchy.
Quick track check is to place a 1" deep socket on its side on top of jack lifting pad. Now place jack in the center of rear differential housing and start to jack up car. If centered and lifting car with sockets round surface contacting or lifting the car it is easy for weight to pivot on socket. Right rear wheel should be 1/4 inch off the ground before left tire lifts. With 1 more jack pump you now have both rear wheels off the ground teetering on socket.

Roscoe: Thanks for the pics, I can see how you mounted the bracket to the frame, that helps with orienting the bracket.
Tim: tranny is now approximately 2" up like you stated, but I still have a gap between my bracket and frame, see my pic
Jeff: thanks for the ifno and resources, I will check my clearances.

Here is another picture, again, my engine is exactly where I want it: front to backe measurements, side to side, level but my horizontal bracket is about 3/4" below where I need to mount it to the frame.