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John:
Pete at Fasttimes built me a pedal box for brake and clutch. He provided a Wilwood 3/4" for the hydraulic clutch and a late model Corvette master cylinder for the manual brake. Also he installs the AC pedals. The gas pedal setup I got from A & C along with the linkage for the firewall and carb. By the way I saw Pete today, if you want the A & C "Piece of S*@#" manual,I'll send you my copy. Joe admits it could be better but that costs money. You can always download ERA's manual from their website, very nice but the pictures don't print, very thorough and informative (140) pages I think. Jim Jim |
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thank you for the link, I actually just recieved the A&C manual today.
Any info on the rack and pinion if that one is good or maybe just go with a flaming river? Also If I go with the wilwods, they come with all the brake lines and valves does A&C's brake line,hose,brackets,line clamps, have anything that I would need that I would not be able to find elsewhere? |
After 5 years I replaced the rack I got from A&C with a Flaming River.
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Every thing is MUSTANG II. Grab a kit car mag or search ebay etc.. and you'll find a ton of stuff. Though the strut rod is a one of kind piece. I'd get AC's .
Ron |
John:
I still have the manual rack from A&C, 13k miles no issues. All that brake stuff you could probably get from your local auto store like Napa or Autozone. By the way when I spoke to Pete last week he said stainless brake lines are all he uses now. Jim |
doesn't the strut rod come with the suspension componets or the lower strut arm which I would get from a&c?
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Nope their extra. $95 with the bushings if I remember correctly.. I looked around and couldn't do much better..
They should have given a price list with all the options.. I.E. Headers, radiator, vents, etc.. |
is the strut rod the arm right under the a arm that the shock and spindle bolt to ?
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What they give you are the upper and lower control arms. The upper one is A shaped the lower is straight. The strut arm runs from the lower controol arm to the frame. It's there to handle the braking loads placed on the lower control arm. It actually one of the modifcations Pete does by looking at his web site. He elminates the strut by beefing up the frame and then running an A style lower control arm..
Thanks, Jim |
The strut rod is different from the mustang II you'll see on ebay. A C uses a "pinto" strut rod. The angle is slightly different.
Ron |
ok, I'm ordering the frame package next week. I already got the manual rack, spindles and wilwood brakes. From the rolling chassis parts I'm getting the strut arms, strut rods, gas tank and lines, posi rear. Any other parts you reccomend that I should get now? Anyone have the panhard bar?
Thanks, John |
I'd forget the gas lines. Use braided flexible lines instead. Much easier to work with. I also made my own brake lines from soft stainless tubing. Source was Inline Tube. Get the motor mounts cause you want to setup your drivetrain.
Check my A&C build site at http://www.priveye.com/cobra.htm Roscoe |
John:
I went with the standard aluminum bars that A&C provide as standard. I changed them to adjustable links because I wanted to tip the pumkin on the rear end because it was coming in contac with the rear cross member. I wish I would have gone with the panard bar when I fisrt did everythging. Now thee is a great deal of loading on the adjustable links when making a hard turn. I actally cracked the weld on one of them and the rear end shifted. I bought a panard bar from Pete but I need to get it installed. Jim |
I painted that car its ford SN sonic blue with gm dimond white pearl stripes theres more pics here
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/i.../boats/cobras/ Quote:
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