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631/2 center oiler (solid lifter) Question about oil
What oil should i use in my engine. I have been told that the current oil that i am using isn't good. That i need zink in my oil because of the soild lifters. I'm just using 10W30 quakerstate.
any help would be great. Automan |
How long has it been built/running?
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I have the same vintage motor and have been running 10w 40 Shell Rotella diesel oil. High zinc but I bought a couple of cases prior to this past January when they lowered the zinc content. I have 1 oil change left before I need to start adding zinc to the oil. ZDDP is one additive. Do a search on this site for zinc as there are a couple of good treads on the subject.
Tim |
The motor has 350 miles on it only since it was remanufactured. Still breaking it in.
Automan |
I would grab some Rotella diesel oil or Valvoline VR oil and throw in a can of GM EOS.
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I been informed that the new formulation of Redline (synthetic) has a high ZDDP content.
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Whats so important about zinc in my engine?
Automan |
Zinc and Phosphorus are additives that help cut down on break-in wear. This is extremely important for flat tappet cams....not so much for roller cams. LOTS of people, even professional engine builders that advertise on this forum are having trouble with flat tappet cam break-in due to the change of oil formulations over the past couple of years. It's almost a "cross your fingers" type deal now. If a cam goes flat, you've lost a cam and a set of lifters. If it's a bad case, you're in for a rebuild as the metal will kill the bearings and scar the crankshaft journals.
If you've made it this far without wiping the lobes off, consider yourself lucky....but I would be changing oils and throwing in a can of EOS just for reassurance. |
take a read on this guys article.
it geeks out a bit (but i dig that) and talks about the where and why of oil. http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf From what i read elsewhere, zddp as an oil addition is being pulled due to the pressure for the Mfrs to have a 120K mile catalytic converter emissions warranty. |
Just started reading about this zinc issue. Is an additive still needed if a syn. oil is used ? Ive always liked Mob. 1
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Only for solid lifter cams. Roller cams are fine as is. If you want the scoop on catalytic life times and the removal of zinc and phos, go to
http://www.zddplus.com/index.htm Biased of course but worth a read. Tim |
My engine builder put Roller rockers on my heads. does that eliminate myself from the zinc additive? Maybe thats why i have gone 350 miles without an issue?
Automan |
No, the main concern is the camshaft and lifters.
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What about my case. Solid flat tappet with 6,200 miles.
Good break in and using 10/30 -5/40 weight. (not 20/50 that some like) No problems so, am I lucky ? At this point, should I go synthic with zinc ? |
it is not recommended to use synthetic to break in those engines.
there are breakin oils(some already mentioned) to handle this. i use brad-penn products, this is the refinery that used to make the old kendall green racing oil. they have a breakin oil (for initial start-up to break in the camshaft) after that i would recommend the 20-50 they offer. i have found the valvoline gets the consistancy of water after about 100 miles, i have stopped using this. i cant comment on the shell product i have no experience using it. i can say that the brad- penn performes excellently for street and racing, i even have a hard time wiping it off of surfaces, its quite sticky, the viscosity remains after heating and punishment. i have 3 solid cam installs using this oil and no failures. http://www.bradpennracing.com/ Fred |
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