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Door latch driver side
The manual doesn't go to in depth with the door latching mounting. The passenger side just required the mounting of the striker side to be sanded flat. The driver side mounting of the latch needed a little shim or wedge.
After reading some threads here I was motivated to get the door to shut without opening the latch. :3DSMILE: http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../door_shim.jpg |
I had to shim both sides. Didnt think they would latch without using the handle. Asked on the forum and found out I just needed to give a little more effort in the closing. Gave it a try and found both worked just fine.
Aaron |
Do any of you find that the latches don't close all the way or they pop out alittle. Is the latch suppose to go inside of the hole or hook on the little edge.
Automan PS: 600miles so far this year. |
Speaking of doors, I finished the edge with aluminum channel. You have to heat it up to kill the temper and it gets soft as butter. Nice finishing touch.
http://www.priveye.com/dls/dooredgs.jpg I also picked up a round leather dog leash and made the old style pulls. http://www.priveye.com/cobra/DOORPULL.JPG Roscoe |
Nice job Roscoe. The aluminum edges really set it off.
Ron |
Nice Roscoe I was wonder what to do with the door lip.:D
Automan The door striker should go in the hole. The first grove line on the striker is backup. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ium/latch3.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ium/latch4.JPG |
Funny, but my door latches are installed with the handle facing DOWN. Now I am wondering which is correct. For the edging around the door frame opening, I used 1" aluminum carpet separater strips I got from Home Depot. I measured them to length, cut them and used a fine file to soften the ends, then formed them to the proper shape using the propane tank from my grille as a buck. Used #8x1/4" ovalhead stainless self-tapping screws to mount through the lip on the body. The strip partially hides the half-round weatherstrip glued to the body around the door opening.
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