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Disc Brakes
I've followed A&C'S suggestion for brakes...11" rotors with GM metrics up front and Explorer disc in the rear. I want manual brakes and it has been suggested that the Explorer rear disc's won't work correctly. Joe said to use a 1" corvette master cylinder, how is this working for those of you that have the same set up. Anything would would change?
Jon |
Pedal pressure is good not too hard. Stops on a dime. I am using a brake proportioning valve and have it all the way open for max rear braking. The rears don't lock up. I am using a 1976 corvette manual cylinder. Only thing I wish the outlets where on the engine side. Not a big deal you just have to reach around to attach the lines. You have to find the rod that actuate the pedal to master cylinder. I can't remember where I bought mine. If you need it I can find out.
Ron |
Ron,that would be a big help!
Jon |
I'm using a Tilton Racing floor mounted pedal set with dual Afco torpedo type MC's. I have the Explorer rear brakes but upgraded the fronts to Wilwood 4 piston calipers. I also have the Tilton balance bar on the pedal set.
http://www.priveye.com/dls/pedal2.jpg |
Here is the manual push rod and clevis for the vette master cylinder. I remember it is a bit long for the foot box. I used a stick to first measure then I trimmed the rod down a few inches. You might want to call them to verify the rod diameter is correct. I just did a search I think it is correct.
http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/pro...product_id=573 Here is a picture I took last year. I think I had to add a 1/8 steel plate to add a little extra metal to mount the master cylinder. I think the holes were not aligned just right. Make sure you drop the holes down on the pedal to get more leverage. If you need I can go and measure mine. Manual brakes need a bit more pedal pounds of force. There is not much travel in the pedal needed so lower on the pedal you mount the clevis the more force you can apply. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/pedalass.JPG |
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