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Ford FE Valve Spring Compressor
Does anyone have a tool for compressing valve springs with the head installed? Someone we all know and love found a busted valve spring on the #7 Exhaust side.
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If you are looking to purchase one, i have heard good things about this unit.
LSM Racing Products SC-150 - LSM Racing Valve Spring Removal Tools - Overview - SummitRacing.com |
I bought a really nice unit from Tim Oelerich at Concept Design Engineer LLC. It bolts to the head at the rocker stantion site, and works really well. I found it on e-bay and paid $86.00 with shipping. It is made for the FE engine, but can be used on engines with stud type rocker arms too.
Concept Design Engineer LLC 6645 Trenton Rd. West Bend, WI 53090 (262)388-2509 Email: conceptdesigneng@aol.com |
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Sell me that motor for $50.00 it has caused you nothing but trouble. LOL
Mike |
Rope
Dan
Paul |
What Mikie said but I'll give you $25.
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Dave,
You would be in trouble with that motor. Judy said so. Mike |
Mikie, Why don't you and Dave get together and maybe we can make an arrangement to sell an engine. I'm looking at making another change to the car.
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In that case $15 and a dozen COOKIES!
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Dan,
Sorry to here she is giving you trouble, I have what you need for replacing the springs. Are you sure it was just a bad spring and you don't have any other issues? Have you checked for at least 0.080" of clearance between the coils so no coil bind at valve full open? What is spring pressure at installed and valve open height? PS...... don't forget to order new stem seals with your new keepers and springs |
Jeff. These are the factory installed springs that came with the Eidlebrock heads. The valve moves freely and comes all the way to the top, even with the other valves. I have Comp duel springs to install with new keepers, seals and seats. I did, however, just get an offer on a 427 block that is going to be hard to turn down. I need to do some homework and figure how much it will cost to build the motor before I buy it. It's just a bare block so I need crank, cam, timing set,bearings, pistons and rings, etc. I have the heads, intake manifold, roller lifters, and other odds and ends, so I figure I can get into the motor complete for around $3k maybe $3.5K plus the block.
Hey, what are you doing for the next few weeks?:confused:;) |
Dan...at least pull the push rods to make sure they are not bent. Are the Edlebrock springs "heavy duty"? How old are the seals? Isn't your current block a 427? If so, it would be a lot cheaper to rebuild your current motor than to start with a different block. If any of the push rods are bent replace with heavy duty crumbly from someone like comp cam. Karl is in France for two weeks, he has a spring compressor.
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Mike, These pushrods are from Comp and they are heavy duty. The heads are only about two years old. I may just rebuild this block. Not sure. So far there is no damage but I haven't taken it all the way down yet. Should be done by the end of the week. I think, just to be sure, I'll pull the heads and have them checked.
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Dan,
If you know the cam grind then get the spec's for the recommended springs. I question everything if I didn't build it ..... so have already questioned it all. As a quick check bend a large paper clip into a z shape. A large clip just happens to be about 0.080 wire diameter so works great to check for coil bind. You need to turn engine over until you have any valve at the full open position. On the valve you just verified is at it's full open position you can use the paper clip to check valve spring coils are not hitting each other and have at the minimum 0.080" gap between the spring coils. You should be able to slide the end of the paper clip between the coils of the V. spring on the top and bottom 2 coils. If you don't have at least 80 thou clearance when cold then they tend to break or worse. Knowing the cam spec will verify desired open and closed pressure at installed height so everything stays happy. A happy engine is a good thing especially in orange cars !!! |
Thanks Jeff. I already have the recommended spring from Comp. I used the springs that came with the Eidlebrock Heads. That seems to have been my first mistake.. In any event, I will at the least, pull the heads and change the springs. While the heads are off, I may change to a roller cam and make a few other changes.
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If I can help give me a call. The idea of a new 427 sounds pretty cool too.
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You should check for carbon build up on the top of your pistons. I mention this because I recently had the opportunity to see that your engine doesn't get over 2,000 rpm.
Just sayin" :LOL: |
[IMG]http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...ng_removal.jpg[/IMG]
I use this spring compressor to compress the valves. In order to keep the valves from faling inside the cylinder I have modified a spark plug, where the collar has been replaced by a male compressed air connector. I screw this plug into the head and blow compressed air into the cylinder, which keeps the valves in its seat. Easy, fast and clean. The valve compressor is from Forza, a spanish company. |
Now that looks like a neat deal. Thanks
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