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Oil pan threads stripped
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The threads in the oil pan plug hole have been stripped. Is there an easy fix ?
I've been using Permatex as a precaution, but I'm not sure it will hold anymore. |
Scottie, you could try an oversized, self-tapping bolt, or better yet, use a larger tap to cut new threads and then use a larger sized bolt. Looks like you've got plenty of "meat"to go larger. I'd put grease on the tap, to collect most of the metal chips. Also useing a flexible magnet or a magnetic drain plug should pick up any remaining debris. Being at the very bottom of the oil pan should make it very unlikely that any of the chips would get circulated.
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I second Karl's suggestion. Should not be too difficult to do and a way more permanent solution.
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Used this in my 1973 Continental with a 460 and it worked for 2 years until I sold it: http://tinyurl.com/yakvascc
If you need a more permanent fix I would re-thread with new oil pan plug: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YooDILhzgtY AZ Bob |
Scottie, take your oil plug to a NAPA and they should be able to fix you up with a tap and larger plug, try for a magnetic one.
The expanding plug BobB talked about would also work, but I like the rethread method better. |
This is the proper way to repair those threads.
++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs, Ted |
Just pull your pan, drill to the next larger tap drill size, tap the fresh hole with the correct size tap install a short thread bolt of the same thread pitch and diameter, clean the metal chips out of the pan reassemble and don't worry be happy.
When you tap or drill and tap with the pan on the engine you will put drilling or tapping metal chips in the pan. The oil pump will pick them up, run them through its gears doing some level of damage then flush them on up to the oil filter. Oil filters do not filter 100% of the oil sent to them. The have a bypass valve built in that bypasses a very significant amount of the oil sent to them on each cycle. If the chips in the bottom of the pan go to the oil filter and get bypassed, their next stop is your engine bearings and well, we sort of know how that story ends. Ed |
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I should mention the bypass valve setting like on the Wix 51515R I use which 8-11 psi, is the differential pressure the valve will open at (In psi VS out psi). |
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Ed |
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The by-pass (relief) valve is an integral part of the lubrication system. By-pass valves are designed to allow oil flow to the engine components when the oil is cold, or if the filter becomes plugged. By-pass valves can be located in the lubricating system or in the lube filter. Under normal operating conditions, the by-pass valve will not be open. When the by-pass valve does open, the oil flows directly to the engine to prevent oil starvation and damage to the engine components. Each by-pass valve is set to open at a predetermined pressure differential. There are two conditions that will cause the by-pass valve to open: http://www.baldwinfilter.com/image/bullet.gif Engine Starts - When the engine is started and the oil is cold. Cold oil does not flow through the filter element as freely as when it is warm. This causes the pressure differential across the filter element to increase and the by-pass valve to open. The by-pass valve will close once the oil is warm and the pressure differential across the filter element drops below the by-pass valve pressure setting. http://www.baldwinfilter.com/image/bullet.gif Plugged Filter – A filter will become plugged if the oil is contaminated, or the filter is not serviced according to the maintenance schedule. Once the filter becomes plugged, the by-pass valve will remain open. This allows unfiltered oil to lubricate the engine components, preventing engine damage from oil starvation. Remember that filters are manufactured to meet engine requirements, including by-pass valve opening pressures. By selecting a filter designed to work with your equipment, you are providing the best possible filtration protection. Source: Baldwin Filters | Tech Tips |
I agree Brian.
I have noticed quite a few filter manufacturers are making filters without bypass valves Fram and Wix for example. Not all applications mind you but it does give a viable option for folks who don't feel the need for them as clogged filters are more a thing of the past. I guess in theory you could see an increased oil pressure over what the cold oil reading your used to IF the filter bypass was kicking in help in the past. Since the oil pump pressure regulator is doing all the work it was designed for. |
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Wix has a good filter look-up system at WIX Filters - Products Catalog Home The standard Ford filter is a Wix 51515. When you look at its specifications you'll see the bypass valve is 8-11 PSI. Product Specifications Part Number: 51515 UPC Number: 765809515154 Style: Spin-On Lube Filter Service: Lube Type: Full Flow Media: Enhanced Cellulose Height: 5.197 (132mm) Outer Diameter Top: 3.661 (93mm) Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed: Thread Size: 3/4-16 By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11 Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20 Burst Pressure-PSI: 290 Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM Nominal Micron Rating: 21 |
I've got one of these on all my vehicles...
https://www.ezoilchangevalve.com/sto..._Products.html
Makes draining a breeze, no worries about stripping threads, the thick rubber gasket allows orientation with the stem up or to the side. Highly recommended. Steve H SPF 1764 |
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Yup Wix makes great stuff. I had that info in my 1st questions Ed above. I use the 51515R since it has a better gpm flow rate. Part Details |
All good info and I agree with it. Still, I'd opt for Karl's solution. NAPA should be able to provide a slightly over-sized self tapping replacement plug that will work fine. Screw it in the first time, then take it right out and use a magnet to capture any shavings from the pan. (And for God's sake, always get two or three turns on the bolt before using a wrench! You don't need to tighten it like a head bolt either. A stubby handled ratchet and the strength in your wrist is plenty.) And if the shavings get into something sensitive, well, you wanted an excuse to get a bigger engine anyway.
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J B WELD THAT **** ,WHO CARES ABOUT CHANGING OIL ............But if it was me pull pan do it wright ,you will always be worried.
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Put away the scotch when you're changing the oil and you won't strip the threads in the first place ;)
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A helicoil insert is the easy way out, and will be stronger than original.
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If you're going to tap the hole, use a thread forming tap. They are "chipless."
You could also use a helical tap (slow spiral), they tend to bring the chip out of the hole, but sometimes chips do tend to get inside when the tap reaches full thread diameter at the bottom of the hole. |
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