Greg, I didn't make spacers. I fully installed the glass with the edge grip rubber seal and inserted the chrome locking strip around the entire perimeter of the back window. This would normally be considered a completed installation.

In my installation this it was my trial fit and necessary to make sure the gap was right. When I first temporarily held the glass in the fibreglass rough opening, the space between the glass and fibreglass was uneven and varied from 1/4" to almost 1/2" inch. So I ground down the fibreglass opening to create an even 3/8" space all around the perimeter. After fitting everything together I could have left it like that, but being who I am, I had to check that the fit was correct and the only way to do that was to X-ray it or biopsy it. As I don't have an x-ray machine, I cut out sections of the rubber to be able to look inside. It revealed to me that the fit is very close, but it is still a little tight in one or two places. I will grind these areas down before the final fitting.

When I did this biopsy, I assumed that Ron Butler had more of this rubber extrusion and locking strip, but he has no more. So now I'll have to find a source for the rubber and locking strip. I'm sure there are a number of places that sell this on the web. I'm not ready to buy it just now, but when I get the hard-top and sliding windows finished I'll track down the correct rubber. Below is a link to McMaster Carr and you can see what the extrusion looks like and the two tools that are essential to doing the work.

McMaster-Carr

Another source for the rubber & locking strip http://www.hitechglazing.com/product/40017/40008

Hi lal Naja. Checked my hardtop window seal more carefully and it is cracked and torn in a number of places. Measured the gasket profile and is darn near a perfect match for the one at hitechglazing. And they have a chrome locking strip! Yahoo.

Comes in 50 ft rolls: Gasket is $83 and locking strip is $44.

I only need less than 12 ft. Anyone want to share the roll?

Cheers
Greg

Russ. I really like the way you did your top. The loose style is very innovative. I'll be taking my top to my upholsterer next month. I'm going with a white top material with something like beige canvas material for the headliner.

Did you use anything like Hushmat or similar sound deadner/insulation inside the hardtop?

Cheers
Greg

Hi Greg, If you're buying the AU-1012206 Rubber and AC-1012254 Chrome strip I'll split it 50/50 with you if there are no other takers. It's exactly what I was going to buy.

Arthur

OK Arthur. I'll place an order tommorrow.
Cheers
Greg

Hello Greg,

Great!

Arthur

That´s one of Dave Brookes hardtops
 

Best quality i have seen so far, the glass window is a one off, produced specialy for this Hardtop, full operating boot.

see pics on DB Replicas Cobra Build Agent

Hey Guys,

I have been running my Cobra in competitive rallies for more than 20 years. I bought one of Ron Butler's hardtops to run the last Starlite rally in December 2000. That event used to run the second weekend in December and left Santa Barbara on Friday evening. After 14 to 15 hours, you would hopefully end up in Las Vegas. I ran the Starlite in the Cobra 6 times without a top and nearly died from the wind chill every time. It was more of a survival test than a rally. The 2000 event had a lot of rain and I was very glad to have the new top and windows in place. I was also running Hoosier race tires with very little tread and spent a lot of time sliding sideways around the curves. It was a memorable event even though we spent a lot of time defrosting the inside of the windows with towels.

My son and I made a trip from Los Angeles to Austin for a Texas Cobra Club meet in 2001 and the top was a lifesaver in the rain and snow that we encountered. It permitted relative comfort in high speed cruising.

However, running with the top does have drawbacks. Primarily, your vision is severely restricted. I never thought about how much I look over the windshield until I got the top on. We tried to use it while running local rallies, but it is so difficult to see traffic lights and even tall street signs, that we have given up on it.

The other issue is noise. I covered the car's floor and back panel with 1/2 inch thick insulation. The inside of the top is covered with foam backed fabric. But the reverberation inside the car at speed is just unbearable without earplugs. A headache will kick in after 20 to 30 minutes. The car is so uncomfortable with the top on, that we would rather run in the rain without it (wearing ski clothes), if the weather is warm enough. If the weather is too cold and wet, we just drive a different car.

My top has been collecting dust for at least 5 years, but it (and the earplugs) are ready next time we do another cross country trip.

RS

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...quinoxTeam.jpg

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...quinoxTeam.jpg[/quote]

Your car looks great!

Thanks for sharing your hardtop noise issues. I'll be sure to add sound deadening and acoustic absorbing materials to mine.

Arthur