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Windsor Vacuum hoses
Hi
Can anyone help with a diagram for vac hoses for my 302 please? Also up to bleeding brakes and clutch......I haven't bled a whole system from scratch before so any opinions on using a vac or pressure bleeding system (or 13y/o on the pedals) appreciated. Thanks |
Can not help with the hoses, but on the brakes and clutch, I would connect a clear bundy plastic tube to the furthest rear brake caliper bleed nipple, run the other end of tubing into a container (old brake fluid container is good) and leave the nipple open and the cap loose - let it gravity bleed till you have fluid in the bottle.
Keep an eye on the reservoir so it does not run out. Then when the end of tube in bottle is immersed in fluid, give the pedal a couple of slow gentle pumps, this will push the fluid out, and then as you take your foot off the pedal it will suck a small amount of the fluid in the bottle into the hose. Then do the furthest front (L/H) the same way then the R/H front, and lastly the R/H rear. Once that is done then I would just pressure bleed using the same hose in bottle trick, starting at Left Rear and working anti clockwise around teh car. Get your 13 year old to hold a moderate pressure on brake pedal and slowly open the nipple. Do the clutch in the same way. |
Thanks Boxy
My enquiry re pressure bleeding meant to refer to using a pressurised pot that screws onto the master cyl...a gizmo that you can buy supposedly to make the process easier. I've done a few motorbikes before and they can be mongrels, someone told me a vacuum or pressure kit is the answer.......anyway i'll try the standard method that you described first and see if it goes ok. Just curious, why when the rear circuit shares the same line until it splits at the diff, do you leave the right rear to last? Greg |
I have the whole diagram of them at home Greg. Will send tonight.
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With the split at the diff your main issue when starting from scratch on the rear is to get the air from the master cylinder to the T piece out.
You could do left rear the right rear, would really make no difference, this is just how I have allways done it. I like to get the majority of air out first, and most is in the pipe, that is why I happily move to the front brakes once I know the backs have fluid getting to them. |
Greg - not exactly sure which ones (motor/EEC) you have there or indeed which hoses you need to keep. I removed most of them from my US motor (smog pump etc).
These might help: http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...uumDiagram.jpg http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...g5.0Vacuum.gif http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=93 This site generally is useful: http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ |
Quote:
As for vacuum bleeders...you have to seal up the nipples with a heavy grease or something similar so when you crack them air doesn't get in past the threads. I bought a vacuum unit and did the clutch circuit. I thought it did a good job but after unbolting the master cylinder I couldn't push it back into position...I was trying to operate the clutch slave. This turned out to be an adjustment problem BUT there must have been air in the master cylinder. I've always done a final bleed with the traditional two man method. Especially on the brake system. |
Thanks fellas for all that.
I'll try the conventional bleed before the fancy gadgets. Merv, thanks for the "very useful" pages........there's no fewer than 7 connections fitted to my intake manifold, i guess a few of those were for pollution gear but way more than i can find connections to. Anyway I'll start mating up a what i can from the pics and then plug the rest i 'spose. Greg |
Can confirm that an 11 year old's leg does wear out after a full system bleed.
And be wary I thought I had the back licked and then just got air when I swapped sides so then just had to oscilate between the two brakes until I did pump out all the air. Can be a little bit tricky. Waiting to see if the boyo, now 14, will fair better with the next full bleed. Have fun! |
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