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PM me a phone number Cameron and I will call you later, if that helps.
Merv |
Testing
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Cameron Similar to the way you used your light meter to check the injectors. Connect one end of the light meter to the positive side of the battery (maybe with a cable extension) and the other to the pins in the connector (not the ECU!) - numbers 20, 40, 60 and 49. If these connections are earthed, then the test light will glow. If not, you will need to trace the wire (physically) and find where the earth connetction is missing. A multimeter would be a little easier but if you don't have one this should work just as well. Cheers Geof |
It would be better if you used an LED test light (lower draw)
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Buy a cheap Multi meter Cameron. These will help.
Simple diagram showing earth/ground: http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ainHarness.gif For all things fuel injection on Ford: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=1 Shows volts at each point: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6 Last check the coil to make sure it is getting current and working! |
Boxhead...Thanks for the advice re: led's and the lower draw, faster blink.
Merv....Thanks heaps some great digrams and links there. Only thing my engine has coil packs instead of a coil. :):):):):):):):):):):):):):):) |
Cam
Did you fix that spaghetti tangle your first sparky installed? Guessing it might be hard to trace issues in that rats nest but best of luck anyway! Cheers Steve PS I suspect I should shut up until I've restarted my alternate wiring layout but I've some time until this becomes a reality I guess - best of luck! |
This really sounds electrical Cameron. Relays are usually robust altho the connections can corrode (that spray from Dick Smiths for cleaning electrical connections is useful sometimes). Fuses are real culprits and there is often a single fuse in the power in to the computer. That is one to check. How about you put a couple of pics of your motor up and we might know more? I assume you have checked that the spark plus are getting spark?
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Hey Stephen....No the wiring is still the full AUII loom (one mouse a couple of pidgeons but no rats) but I relocated the wiring through the trans tunnel before painting so it looks a lot better now. But yes, a pain to work on. One of the reasons I did not remove any wiring is because I thought I would stuff something, also I still have the original cruise control unit which I may connect (just plugs straight into existing loom) up one day if I can be bothered working out how to make and connect switches for it.
Merv....When you say fuse are you talking about a fuse in the fuse panel or a fuse in the computer. Yes I know I have spark because the motor runs if I spray some carby cleaner through a vacume port, so I'm pretty darn sure its fuel related. I bought a CHEAP multi meter last night. How do I use that sucker to test stuff? Positive to the wire/pin I'm testing and negative to the body/earth? I guess auxillaries on. I will try to post some pics in a seperate post |
Cameron
When you removed the fuel rail and injectors, did you release the pressure in the rail somehow? If not, did the pressurised fuel discharge when you lifted the rail off the injectors. There would be a heap of fuel under pressure in this and if there wasn't any discharged, it may suggest a lack of fuel or fuel pressure. Just a thought. Cheers Geof |
What a can o worms!
There's some good pics here from Merv who continues to be a great supporter of this forum:), be mindful of the diagrams though as my engine is a '93 mustang and quite a few of the wiring colours and component descriptions are different in my car to the published ones. As yours is a a post '00 engine heaven knows how different it will be:( I'm pretty much finished wiring mine myself and readying it for the trimmer. I powered it up a few days ago and had headlights coming on instead of parkers and the immobiliser going crazy. It did turn over though and the fuel pump jumped into life. I've been booked in to the trimmer for 6 months and don't want to reschedule him so haven't time to sort out the bugs before i go away for 5 weeks on Monday. So like you I can look forward to many hours of more electrical fun soon:confused: As Merv said on another post, you'll get to know every wire in the car. Good luck Greg |
Geof.....Yes I disconected the fuel lines and then when I lifted the rail a fair bit of fuel came out.
Hi Greg........Get to know every wire:eek::eek::eek: There must be over a thousand wires in this sucker. Smart lock, Smart Shield, computer plus Body control module etc. Now that I know whats involved with using the original wiring I would really consider using aftermarket computer and wiring if building again. Good luck with your wiring all you need now is to wear a big red nose and clown shoes for when you press the horn and the wiper jets squirt you in the face.:p Ok if all goes well there will be some pics here. These 2 pics show injectors just before fuel rail removal [IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../injectors.JPG[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...jectors_1_.JPG[/IMG] |
engine
Ok, now for some engine and wiring pics
[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../engine_3_.JPG[/IMG] without flash [IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/engine24.JPG[/IMG] with flash [IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../engine_1_.JPG[/IMG] another angle [IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../engine_2_.JPG[/IMG] and the car, close to finished, interior still needs tiding up. [IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../PICT00045.JPG[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../PICT00164.JPG[/IMG] |
Thanks for the advice:D I think we've all felt like clowns at times after spending hours on trying to fix something only to overlook the most obvious.
Fortunately my engine hasn't got all the Smartlock stuff, it still took a fair bit of time to sort out the loom though. Pics look good, great 'out there' colour, I like the little bits of body colour in the trim. Interesting that the intake plenum on the windsors sometimes face in opposite directions.......yours is 180o to mine. |
Thanks Greg,
I'm glad you got the joke, after I posted it I thought "I hope he doent think I'm calling him a clown". The plenum direction depends on it Being Australian or American. Which ever country your in the intake is to the passenger side. I guessing they do it that way to allow extra room for steering and brake booster etc. In some of the American cars they used to put the engine off centre to allow for steering. Of course if they released that model in Australia it resulted in the engine being jamed up against the steering. I used to have a 68 Dodge Phoenix [(pillarless model) called Plymouth Fury VIP 3 in the USA]. I put a 440 magnum spec motor in it and you should have seen the twists and turns the custom made headers went through to avoid the steering box. |
Quote:
stuffed up with photo will do it again... |
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http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/IMG_0868.jpg |
Cleaning the 'humpy' for Easter - will look through these pics later. I could not have progressed technically, or even emotionally, at times with the body and engine wiring without others supporting me on the Forum. Good on you Greg for doing your own wiring.
Cameron - re Geof's question above - did fuel come out under pressure when u disconnected the rails? The fuse that I referred to on mine was a single fuse on a feed the brought 'constant' power to the computer. You will really need need to find harness diagram for a 2002 Ford Windsor and identify that wire. It should be among these: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=3 Also use your (new) test meter to check voltage - with ignition key on - at a few points on the harness. Attach the ground pole (black) to the chassis and probe around with the red one (with the volts scale set up to 12 volts). There should be very small voltages at most points on the fuel ignition harness. I am no autoelec, but if there is none then .... |
Hi Rob....Yep, my Dad used to swear by that "Start ya bastard" stuff
Merv........Fuel came out but I'm not sure how much pressure, I do remember a bit of a spurt when the rail lifted from the first injector. Yes it is still an option that the fuel pump is not providing enough pressure. I guess I could purchase a fuel pressure guage. I guess I would just hack into the rubber section between the rails? I was told that if the computer does not detect enough pressure then it does not turn the injectors on. Any way all the shops are shut today for Good Friday so I'll just have a play with the multi meter. Thanks Merv and good luck with the Humping. I just get eggs for Easter.:LOL: |
Ha! You said earlier about mobile mechanic: "He thinks its probably a problem with my computer and it will need to be sent off for repair. He said something about the computer earth probably being stuffed." I agree, it is either the power in to the computer or the ground. Not sure where your comp is but you could try attaching a wire to its case and grounding that.
Have a good Easter and the bunny might come and fix it up for you! |
A Grade Moron
:o OK, This is very embarrissing.
:o I had the fuel lines on the wrong way around:eek: I fitted a fuel pressure gauge and was not getting any fuel pressure. So I figured maybe its the pump or the regulator. I got on the phone to my brother in law (a mechanic) and was discussing the possible causes with him. Something he said made me say "imagine if I had the fuel lines on the wrong way around":LOL: Then I asked "should the fuel go to the regulator on the way in or the way out", he replied "usually on the way out". I said "Oh dear"(or words to that effect):eek:. I swapped the fuel lines over and it started straight away. Thanks to everybody who helped. Just in case anybody is interested, below is a picture of my new fuel pressure gauge. [IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...FPgauge_2_.JPG[/IMG] |
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