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Bonnet Scoop Fixing.
I have done a bit of a search and have not been able to find the best method of bonding the scoop to the bonnet I don't want the rivet version, I would assume I need to remove the gel coat off the bonnet and roughen up the point of contact on both sides but what is the best adhesive to use?? Would polyester resin do the job? Or maybe buttering both sides with the fibreglass reinforced bog, and pressing together? Or would Epoxy be the best way to go? Any help would be appreciated.:confused:
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Do you want the scoop to sit up where the lip is for the rivets? or are you wanting to "blend" these in?
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I am after the "blended" one piece look.
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I am no glass expert, but my way of thinking would be to trim the scoop so it is as even as possable around the lip, then grind a ridge / dip in the bonnet where you want it located.
Trial fit to be sure it is where you want it located. Mix some glass resin and apply to both the hollow you have created, and to the lower edge of scoop. Mate the 2 together, then glass in as required. Probably be good to also include a sheet or 2 of resin mat to add strength. Where ever you are adding resin, you will be needing to remove gelcoat. If you have a hole in the bonnet and can access inside of scoop, you could add more mat here for strength as well. Now that I have said all that, a glass guy will be along soon to say I told you wrong :) |
I have a 2 piece bonnet (inner panel and outer skin) so I am considering sandwiching it between the two before I bond the top skin on. This way the lip will be hidden and it would be impossible for the scoop to ever come off.
The guy next door has a mate called Chook who has been giving me some advice as I glass away. He recommends the use of Q cells which are the tiny ultralight glass beads. Instead of bog he suggests I use these mixed with the resin to form a paste and use it where bog is required. My door skins are held on with Wurth KD Bond and Seal, stuck like sh*t to a blanket. Where the gaps are I will be using the Q cells to fill and sand smooth. This sounds like a good option to me as it reduces the amount of dis-similar materials used. Now I will stand in line with Boxy and wait to be shot down. |
anyone who is called Chook must be right.
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hey i,ve been watching this thread & i want to rivet mine on
my question is do i rivet with washes on the inside of the bonnet or do i use rivnuts & security screws [ tri lobe dome heads ] & do i use sikaflex between the bonnet & scoop or what ROB |
I used nutserts with stainless allen key button heads.
No sealant on mine, but mine also is not at final paint. |
Same as Boxhead, Rob. See my gallery for closeups.
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i might be stupid but what are nut inserts [ are they like rivnuts ] i,m a chippy so never heard of them & where do you get them from
ROB |
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Have a look at this link, it's a pictorial guide to nutserts. I buy mine at Ovesco at Nerang, there'll be somewhere on the Northside for sure. Try a decent fastener supplier or the guys at Redcliffe Airport will know. Cheers |
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7 Pritchard Road Virginia, QLD.4014 You're Welcome. :JEKYLHYDE |
You can get them online through Boltmasters.
It has to be quicker than what I have experienced waiting for them to come into our local store. They didn't want to special order them in as they are going to stock them as a permanent line in Emerald, SOOOOOON. http://www.boltmasters.com.au/ Here is a link to a home made rivnut fitting tool. You could make one a bit tidier with no penalty I'm sure. http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut-tool.html |
Riv - nut and nutsert are the same
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Stumpeater
I'd assume the body work is made up from polyester glass and not epoxy but there is one golden rule in glassing. You can bond epoxy to epoxy, poly to poly, epoxy to poly but NOT poly to epoxy. So starting with the first assumption stick with polyester and the Chook man is right, Q cells or even another better derivative design for improved sanding, and whose name escapes me for now, allow a resin mix to be nicely thickened. You wont need much but adding bulk to a polyester mix also helps speed up the curing process that is partly driven by heat so you need to watch ratios and application times to a degree. Just be fully prepared when you do the job so as to not loose time. Have fun. |
Thanks!
Thanks guys, Lots of votes for resin, sounds like the best option. I have heard of Q cells from a time long ago. I will source some and give it a go.:)
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just for some info
todays sunday mail qld trade tools direct have rivnut kits for $45 with sizes up to 6mm gun & alloy nut serts96 piece kit going to get me 1 tomorrow at that price |
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