Pedal ergonomics
 

My modified car (see 250 GTO thread) will retain the original clutch and brake pedals but I'm fitting the DBW accelerator pedal from the donor car. I'm interested if there are any principles I should be considering in where I place the pedal pad. I can't seem to find any guidance on this.

It seems that it should be positioned such that it's resting position is on the same plane as the pressed brake pedal, so that the foot can slide across. Any ideas or links to information? Thanks.

I've fitted it temporarily just to get the wiring set up and the engine running.

Peter,

You could do what I did. I was driving a BMW 2002 Tii as my everyday car and the seating position and pedals seemed perfect, especially for heel/toe braking. So, made my Cobra pedals to match. I used a torch to heat the pedal arms and bent them to get the correct spacing.

RS

For my pedals I took some measurements of my feet in the shoes I like to drive in. With you heel on the floor measure the height to the ball of your foot. A little higher than that is where you brake and clutch pedal should be. The ball of your foot does the pushing and you need a little clearance between your heel and the floor when on the pedal.

The width is a problem as the foot boxes are fairly narrow. Again pull out the tape measure and with your feet together measure the distance between the balls of your feet. Space the pedals a bit further than that apart so you have enough room between your feet on the pedals so they don't clash as you press the clutch. Also give yourself enough room on the left side of the clutch so you can slip your foot past to give your leg a rest.

The gas pedal is personal preference. Some people heel toe so with the ball of you foot on the brake the bottom of the gas pedal needs to be close enough you can hit it with your heel but not get in the way when you jump on the brake pedal. Some like to use the side of their foot on the gas pedal so it needs to be close enough to hit it.

Here's my pedals bent to where I find them comfortable.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...as_Pedal_4.jpg

The Gas pedal however is easily adjustable. You can move the tread up and down depending on which set of holes you bolt it to. You can also pivot it left and right as it's on a threaded mounting and you can change the pedal height without changing the pedal throw by turning the pedal out the required number of threads.

There's also a back stop on the pedal that is adjustable. I thought this was important as you don't want to be stretching the throttle cable at wide open throttle.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../Gas_Pedal.jpg
Cheers

Mike that would be the least worn pedal set I have seen for a while ;)

Yep, but it's been a pretty good setup for sitting in the car and making broom broom noises while I pretend to be doing laps of the Nuremberg ring. :o

Cheers

They may be least worn, but atleast they have a VIN number and current rego.

No need to defend me David. It's probably more embarrassing that the car does have VIN and rego and is still not back on the road. :o

The GM performance engine controller kits include dimensions in their manuals. They are available on the web somewhere. I think i saw them on the GM performance parts website.

Found it -Thanks

Can't seem to post an image of it at the moment.

I don't want to hijack the thread, but Mike, where did you get the pedals from?.

They were designed and built by a very exclusive race engineering shop. Fabricator and engineer used by world champions, etc etc....

What, don't believe me?

Actually I just knocked them up in the shed :p

Cheers

The pedal treads for the brake and clutch came from Snake bite in Queensland. I just machined the backs of them to mount them and make them pivot under foot. Having your legs out relatively straight puts the pedals on a awkward angle when you press them down so I made them pivot to keep them flat under the ball of your foot when you press them. I made springs to keep them against their stops so they don't rattle and move about.

The pivot bolt is machined to retain the spring in place.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...edal_Pivot.jpg
Hope this gives you some ideas.

Cheers

Aussie Mike

Mike

Where are you at with your build. On the road again soon..

Hi Bernie,

I'm finally working on it again after a bit of a hiatus. Family and work commitments have been slowing me down for a while now. Happy to be working on it again. Hopefully I'll have some progress to post in the near future.

Cheers

Aussie Mike

Yes Mike know the feeling of being distracted with work. Todd and I have been working at the new store in Portland. Two more on the horizon as well:(

Only just got the GT40 going again after a serious re build - or should say re do!! As most was thrown and done again. New paint, stripes, wheels re done, re wired, full re trim and roof etc lined. Then all injection re tune etc. Etc.

A far better end result.

The new shed/garage look great. Now to fill it with tools - :D

I guessed that you might have had some hand in making the pedal box area look pretty good.

I will probably get mine on the road, then change a few things cosmetically, but first things first, getting it on the road. Doug is back onto it and getting it ready for engineering. My shed is full of FJ40 parts for my FJ40 that I am working on and doing an engine swap on soon. From a 350 Chev to a LS1.

Cheers

Lawrence

An LS1 powered FJ40 would be a beast. Sounds like a fun project.

Cheers