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merv i'm a chippy
the diagram you have is a good draft [ but kiss rule]always is the best as most of the time. i have found your radial arch is what you need for clearance &compression of the strut k ] should be the compressed travel of the strut so i'll get the strut fitter to drawup something rob |
My 2 Bobs worth.
Simple and it works! Hard to see here but its a piece of aluminium angle between the rear bolts on the hinge the strut pushes and holds no worries, don't know where I got the strut from but it looks like a pulsar one I had lying around. Length was just right. Go to the wreckers when you work out what length, and there is a smorgasbord to choose from.http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...d=6304&thumb=1
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struts work great
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Did the measuring and calculations today and went and got a strut and fitted it up and all seems fine. It tucks under inconspicuously and holds the bonnet well. It does not have to lift the bonnet, but after about 2/3 travel, it takes over. Any pressure is on the hinge not the 'glass. One seemed enough so far. Will keep the chrome strut there for any fallback in high wind.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ngle_strut.JPG |
Looks good Merv.
But I would probably fit it other way around, so the seal is not keeping oil in, but instead keeping dust out. |
Merv,
Looks like a nice simple installation. I would reinforce the hinge now that you have drilled a hole in it, in time I am sure the hinge will crack at that point. Tek screws are my pet hate, they are only good for fences.:eek: It is also a good idea to have the strut "overcenter" so it is not costantly trying to open the bonnet. Phil |
Thanks Dave and Phil. I will reverse the strut direction. That hinge is thick metal and there is very little strain on it, even with the strut. There is not a lot of pressure on it when closed. I was planning on having a small curved retainer welded on to it to attach the strut to in a week or so. My welding is functional, but not neat!
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Mounting non gas charged shock absorbers with the seal up is a good practice but I wouldn't worry too much about which way up you mount gas struts. They are gas charged and if the seals aren't going to hold up to gravity then they definitely won't hold to the gas pressure.
Cheers |
Your probably right Mike, I just thought they may have a little lubricating oil in them (also thought the gas seal would be different to the shaft seal), I have never looked at an exploded view of a gas strut
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Yep they do have a little oil in them to lube the piston and seals. The more I think on it I reckon having it mounted the way Merv has done is probably best as it'll keep the seals from drying out.
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Thanks again. I got under the car and looked at where the strut was positioned when the bonnet is closed and it is a bit off centre and seems not to be trying to push the bonnet up. I will make up a small 'tab' to have welded along the curve of the hinge to take the threaded screw/ball at the top.
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merv
don't turn your strut ;it's aready mounted the correct way up how large is the tab & is your hinge arm cast or a steel tube how did you find where to drillyour pivot point rob |
Rob, the hinge arm is a steel tube but very thick metal. I drilled and tapped in a stainless ball with a threaded body. I am still playing around with the location one the tab. On positioning, I had 'attached' the bottom of strut to the lower chassis rail and then from under the car on the hoist I moved the arm through its arc at the hinge to try to establish a point where it seemed balanced and gave enough force to hold the bonnet up, without pushing it up. I used a small G clamp to try different positions.
The various figures (above) helped but basically some experimentation. |
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Rog |
42 cm Rog. I have since welded up the bolt hole and fitted a small bracket to the hinge to take the ball for the top fitting of the strut.
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