Yes the passenger door and whole body is really excellent, the more I look at it the more I am impressed by it. The drivers door edges do let it down.

I paid to have the engine bay and undercar painted, as I don't intend to remove the body, nor do I intend to build and then disassemble for engine bay paint.

Here are pics of the front suspension mounts, by eye there is about a 10mm difference between sides when lining up with the cross-brace, but the cross-brace is whats out of position - if you look at the "plate" with the many holes, then both mounts are in the same position. The millimeter positioning of the cross-brace is obviously not critical to suspension, geometrry or anything else, and I suspect Ian assembles/welds that part in without a jig.

LH side front

http://bencobra.files.wordpress.com/...927-002591.jpg

RH side front

http://bencobra.files.wordpress.com/...927-002601.jpg

You make a good point about the rear bolts, on my RH side rear if I were to pull the bolt straight out the head of the bolt would clear the body by about 10-15mm

On the LH side rear, pulling the bolt out straight the bolt head touches the body, and I have to angle the bolt, but it does come out easily. In this pic it is touching the body, and basically falling out. Of course when there is an arm in there I won't be able to angle the bolt, so I will swap the direction of the bolt (thanks for the tip). It's interesting that we have this problem on "reversed" sides, I also note the difference between the RH and LH on my car, but then again I guess the body is never going to be perfectly 100% symmetrical.

http://bencobra.files.wordpress.com/...927-002581.jpg

The fuel tank is from Ian, I would give it about an 8/10 for weld quality. The fittings you can see on it came with the tank. Also the tank comes with the straps and bolts to hold it in, and some rubber strip cushions for the straps.

Given the smallish space for a tank (read, a smallish tank) I have always intended to use an external swirl pot, although I recognise the noise problems of a BOSCH 044 and am going to look at other pump options.

I assume the masked hole in the top is for a fuel-level sender.


http://bencobra.files.wordpress.com/...927-002611.jpg

http://bencobra.files.wordpress.com/...927-002621.jpg

http://bencobra.files.wordpress.com/...927-002631.jpg

http://bencobra.files.wordpress.com/...927-002641.jpg

http://bencobra.files.wordpress.com/...927-002651.jpg


If you want to have a closer look you're welcome to look in person when we can arrange a time!


:)

Thanks Ben, obviously i haven't seen the tank before, I'm actually surprised at how small it appears to be, do you know what capacity it is ?
The construction looks quite tidy, do you know if it has any baffles, based on your comments, about the swirl pot I'm assuming minimal at best.

Whats the bracket on the side of the tank for ?
Is it to mount a Bosch style pump maybe ?

Your rear upper shock mounts definitely stick out further than mine, an improvement i suspect, as i couldn't get the bolts out until i removed the body. 10mm difference is about all it would have taken.

Good idea about the anti chip, i never even thought of it, but i can do myself as i always intended to remove the body.

I suspect your right about the upper front shock mount, yours look angled towards the bottom mount, mine are vertical, meaning the rod end is on an angle to the bolt and the force towards the rear mount face.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...009_Large_.JPG

Fantastic photos Ben, I'll PM you about a get together.
Cheers

Ben, something i forgot to mention,
The lower front and Rear upper suspension arms dont fit well , misaligned by about 3 or 4 mil with the bushes in, just enough to make it impossible to get in without damage, so I made up a spreader bar see pic, that just springs the arms enough to line up with the mountings, you'll need a rubber mallet as well.

Misalignment
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...295_Large_.JPG

Jig
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...297_Large_.JPG

Your welcome to the jig when you need it,

Dave

Dave my rear upper and front lower arms all go straight in with a gentle push by hand, no tappomatic required (I just checked). Looks like you have different bushes though, mine are dark blue and pre-greased with clear grease (I bought the complete assembly with bushes already installed, were yours the same?)

I think Gregg has commented on the fuel tank capacity previously, something like 45 litres maybe, Gregg? The bracket certainly looks like it is for holding a pump. I haven't looked inside yet for baffles.

regarding the front shock mount, even the pic in the manual (second pic on page 12) shows it on an angle so I don't know why yours would be straight?

Yes I reckon the tank hold about 45 litres. That bracket on the side is to hold the bosch EFI pump. On mine though it is located at the front of the tank which is a little hard to get to. The bosch pumps are bloody noisy. Now I have a Carter Lift pump as well for the Surge tank so 2 pumps = more noise.

Rgds

Gregg

You blokes with your new style Classic Revivals make me think about doing a build again!

If only the engineering process was not so painful.

Ben

I finally looked inside the tank (through the hole for the sender). While I can't take a photo of the inside, I can see that the right corner of the tank, in this photo, (where the outlet and return are) are "boxed-off" in what looks like a simple baffle arrangement

http://bencobra.files.wordpress.com/...927-002631.jpg

Now I see why Ian has made the fuel level sender in the middle. He has moved the outlet/return fittings to the passenger side - much neater in my opinion. Also Ben the box/baffle should help a bit, I still reckon you'll need a external swirl pot though as the external High Pressure EFI pumps dont have good suction and dont like sucking air. I found my install manuals for the Fuel Guage and Sender - will email to you. Rgds Gregg

thanks mate, yep I will still use a surge-tank.

Ben

I see you have attached close to the tank that nice blue annodiser Earl fuel filter.

It was the bain of my early car's running as I believe the filter can't flow enough for an injected system. Suggest you take it off and replace it with a standard Ford or Holden filter that will flow freely.

My car would run for a while and then slowly starve whilst even at 60 kph. Pulling over the car would generally idle and I learnt to switch off and prime the lines to get any further driving.

Once I switched to a larger filter all my issues went away.

I too had my G-Force tank modified and went away from an external Bosch 044 to a BA Falcon in tank pump set up - so much neater.

Good luck.

Steve

Modena/DaveW, does the new chassis accept a standard tank from a production car or is a fabricated tank the only way to go?
DaveW, I'm curious, has your engineer seen what you've done to your chassis welds? When I received my car I had the chassis sandblasted because the paint job was so bad and took the opportunity to clean up the crappy welds by grinding and linishing the areas that would be most exposed when the car was finished. When my engineer saw what I had done he spun a bearing and wasn't impressed that I had tampered with the welds, but he did calm down. :(

Regards.

slowy, the tank came like that, I haven't added anything, interesting comments about the filter however, thanks for the tip.

mando, the fuel tank is custom made to suit the chassis/boot floor. There's nothing rocket science about the tank, it's just made to exactly the right dimensions to fit in the space provided.

Mando, As Ben says, the tank Ian sells is a custom fabricated Aluminium tank, fits nice, Although i've decided on a custom tank similar design but incorporating an intank pump and swirl pot from a VE commodore, theres a dual pump Denso version if it doesnt flow enough and its neat and quite. (fitted to HSV W427s)

Re the welds, I flatened off a few bulges here and there, with a flap sander after sandblasting as well, but mostly just smoothed over with a fibre reinforced bog and a cardboard corner template, some areas just wiped with the radius of my finger. Only the visable areas when the body is on have been done, the rest of the welds are fairly untouched except for a bit of filling if they were partucularly ugly. I did sand, file a lot of edges, took off sharp edges etc, but shoudnt be an issue.
Havent spoken to Enklemanns, since i started, i better have a chat, but i'm not too worried, not over board on the metal removal.
Dave