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-   Australian Cobra Club (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/australian-cobra-club/)
-   -   Some assembly progress pics (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/australian-cobra-club/112803-some-assembly-progress-pics.html)

Zedn 10-06-2011 04:55 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralphy (Post 1155146)
Liam forces do go both ways, however considering rear brakes at best offer 25% of your braking force vs. acceleration at 100% rear. Plus the rear unloading during braking there is no comparison. I also wondered if you were to add front coilovers. In your pics I see no upper mount.
Its hard to see in the pics, but the upper brackets have a similar bracket on the other side of the RHS with the bolts going right through in double shear.

David, something else that needs to be considered is that the original jag cage is mounted on rubber bushes, so the trailing arms in the stock set up probably stabalise the cage more than they support the control arms.

Rebel1 10-06-2011 05:46 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Hodgson (Post 1155134)
I wouldn't think there is an issue of strength in the lower dog bone, but the weaker point being the inner pivot bracket and bolts.
I agree on this point David.
That is why it is highly recommended to make up a plate to tie the left and right brackets together.

I'm not talking about a tie plate between the two shafts as vizable in Liams pics but a full plate under the diff tieing those two brackets together.

I recently supplied a mate with a spare inner pivot bracket as he bent his when he had an "off" and hit the armco.

What was surprising was that even tho he had used locktite, and the bolts were safety wired when he originally installed his diff , his bolts were all loose after the off.

His original installation used the tie plate between the pivot shafts like Liams but not a plate tieing the brackets together.

He has now made a full tie plate

AC-460 10-06-2011 05:55 PM
You could always do what I did..Throw away the Jag control arms and fit AU Double Wish bones and still use the Jag centre....... you dont have any torque twist problems
The Jag centre has since been replaced with a full alloy nine inch Jag IRS Housing Detroit centre and 3.4-1 Gears

Zedn 10-06-2011 05:59 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel1 (Post 1155156)
I agree on this point David.
That is why it is highly recommended to make up a plate to tie the left and right brackets together.

I'm not talking about a tie plate between the two shafts as vizable in Liams pics but a full plate under the diff tieing those two brackets together.

I recently supplied a mate with a spare inner pivot bracket as he bent his when he had an "off" and hit the armco.

What was surprising was that even tho he had used locktite, and the bolts were safety wired when he originally installed his diff , his bolts were all loose after the off.

His original installation used the tie plate between the pivot shafts like Liams but not a plate tieing the brackets together.

He has now made a full tie plate
I havnt yet installed it, but there is a plate to go on the underside also. I am waiting to get the allignment checked before drilling the holes and bolting it on. The ends of the fulcrum shafts on the RCM also bolt through a thick plate in the chassis so there is no way it could come apart.

David Hodgson 10-06-2011 08:35 PM
Les/Zden, I think I recall threaded holes on the underside of the inner brackets, is this correct? I wonder if they were used in the original cradle.

One of the NSW guy's who I don't see anymore, Dale Benge, mounted his retaining the Jag craddle in a blown 302 Arntz.

Zedn 10-06-2011 08:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Hodgson (Post 1155182)
Les/Zden, I think I recall threaded holes on the underside of the inner brackets, is this correct? I wonder if they were used in the original cradle.

One of the NSW guy's who I don't see anymore, Dale Benge, mounted his retaining the Jag craddle in a blown 302 Arntz.
Correct, 5/16 unf holes two at each end (8 in total).

sevenohms 10-13-2011 10:04 PM
Awesome chassis!

I don't know if yours is approved, but when I did my torsional test I found the back of my jag diff moving, so I made a member that connected the diff to the chassis. Rock solid now! :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zedn (Post 1154726)
Hi all,

I have been working away on my cobra and currently up to paint and assembly. Thought i would post up some pics of the progress. Its really starting to come together now.

I had a lot of trouble with getting coverage with the blue pearl. Its a tricky colour because the pearl hides the lack of coverage from some angles, making it difficult to spray if the light isnt perfect. Im reasonably happy with it now. The parts you can see in the photos that are a bit thin are just the parts that get covered by the body and these will have foam tape on them any way.

I havent got the front rear shocks installed in these photos so the bits of metal on there as spaces will be removed when i get another pair of shocks.

I am using trailing arms on the rear. I know a lot of people think they are unnecessary, but the RTA frown upon leaving bits out of the Jag rear. The trailing arms are Jag bushes on the rear and nissan patrol upper trailing arm bushes on the front. Suspension moves freely without binding, whick i was glad about after spending a day making up the arms.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/chas_8.jpg
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/chas_9.jpg
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/chas_7.jpg
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/chas_5.jpg
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/chas_6.jpg
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/chas_4.jpg
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/chas_3.jpg
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/chas_2.jpg
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/chas_10.jpg

Zedn 10-14-2011 12:24 AM
Gday Sevenohm,

RCM contacted me regarding that and i am going to be fabricating two braces this weekend.


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