| Merv and Sharon |
11-30-2011 02:37 AM |
Harrison: Commodore adjustable radius rods
One of the difficulties with the Commodore (VS) front suspension on the Harrison (and others I suspect) is that the Radius rod ("Z" bar) is not adjustable so that caster variations are difficult when wheel alignment is attempted. There are adjustable rods available and I was wondering if anyone had experience with these?
http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bul.../069_rr207.pdf |
| sambo |
11-30-2011 03:44 AM |
Merv, I haven't set my caster yet but I was under the impression that it was done by shortening the rearward-most spacer or crush tube on the upper control arm to lay it back. Do these adjustable radius rods achieve the same thing by moving the lower arm (or its arc) forward somehow?
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| Krait |
11-30-2011 07:45 AM |
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| Merv and Sharon |
11-30-2011 12:15 PM |
Yes Paul with a shimming process but Geoff where did you get those ones? That is what Fulcrum Suspensions suggested to me.
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| Merv and Sharon |
11-30-2011 12:40 PM |
Found your source Geoff.
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| Merv and Sharon |
12-01-2011 11:39 PM |
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| hsv300 |
12-01-2011 11:42 PM |
Merv are you thinking about getting these?
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| Merv and Sharon |
12-02-2011 02:47 AM |
Maybe. I like the idea of having things adjustable. I originally found that I had +3.5 caster each side and had this adjusted, to the extent possible, with the current set up, to +1. Car feels to have sharper turn in and does not seem to have lost straight line stability. The suspension guy I am working with suggested the adjust adjustable rods. I will keep evaluating the setting I have now first.
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| sambo |
12-04-2011 02:19 PM |
Merv, what problems were you experiencing with +3.5 caster? Warwick suggested something like 7 or 8 for caster, mind you I have a power rack.
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| Merv and Sharon |
12-04-2011 10:38 PM |
Paul I found the steering a bit heavy and now it is lighter and not as susceptible to road undulations.
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| Merv and Sharon |
12-05-2011 03:15 AM |
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| sambo |
12-05-2011 03:51 AM |
Good reading there Merv, thanks. Will probably go for around 6 degrees of caster to start with, in fact that number rings a bell rather than 7-8. It's written on a piece of paper "somewhere" after I last spoke to Warwick. I think he said zero toe front and rear as well.
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| sambo |
12-05-2011 03:57 PM |
Just a thought - you've got some pretty lethal track weapons up there in QLD, what settings are the quicker Harrisons running?
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| Merv and Sharon |
12-05-2011 06:31 PM |
I would not classify mine in that category as it is set up as a street car. Rear camber is about +0.5 and front is about +1.20. Toe-in is minimal at the front (1mm total).
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| gjkrv8 |
12-05-2011 09:59 PM |
On the CR we run the following:
Seems ot handle ok:
FRONT:
Camber 1.0 to 1.25 deg negative
Castor 6.0 to 8.0 deg positive
Toe in 2.5 to 3.0 mm TOTAL
Rgds
gregg
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