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thanks everyone for more tips.
To me it feels like fuel or fuel delivery is an issue as a light pedal appears to be ok. Am going to have a look at the fuel filter today. Then off to an expert this week. Rgds Gregg |
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Phil the more I think about it the more what you are saying sound feasible, will give it a try.
Ben - yes dont want to turn it off all the way - could be some brown stained jocks if I did that. |
ecus really only learn the long term oxygen mixture trims
if u were an ordinary joe blow or a granny driver u would never realize an ecu reset when it comes to performance if it feels like a miss then leads and plugs maybe remove injector at a time and see which cylinder makes I difference in revs also remove exhaust and re drive maybe u have blocked exhaust but most common is plugs n leads it's hard when the scanner doesn't say much u actually have to use yr head these are the jobs I always loose money on hebehe |
Have you checked your leads to make sure one is not faulty....
Sometimes the simplest things.... |
Mine did this when the O2 sensors went.
Ran OK under light throttle, idled like a dog and overfueled under load. It would cough and splutter when I tried to put the boot in. Also check the pipes around the top of the engine, the old ones used to perish at the bends at the back of the engine, escaping vacuum and all that... More of a read here... Australian LS1 and Holden Forums |
Fixed - bluddy plug lead is faulty
Prize goes to Towmaster :-)
I was listening and looking under the hood this morning and it sounded like a clicking noise from the back of the engine on one side. put my finger down to feel the plug lead and got a nastly zap. All other leads dont give a zap. It is not making good contact I think as those stupid GM Spark plug heat sheilds are rubbing on the headers on this cylinder and vibrating the plug lead loose. I checked yesterday but not while the engine was running and this one is at the back and hard to get to and felt fine yesterday, I must admit this particular cylinder the header pipe is very close to the plug shield making for a tight fit. In fact to get the plug out on this one I have to unbolt the header on this side. I still think there are problems as I still get a jolt from where the lead goes into the plug rubber cover etc. The others dont give me a jolt. I am going to change the led and use those flexible heat shields to see if I get better contact. But it goes like it used to now. Should go better if I fix this lead etc. Thanks for your suggestions - they all helped. I still reckon I will take it to Erol for a once over tune etc as my engine is second hand (done 50,000 ks) and I dont know how "stock" the tune is etc. Rgds Gregg |
Dont be shy to sign up to Australian LS1 and Holden Forums for any tech advise on LS variants.
They love anything LS1 related and drool over LS1's in Cobras. Also you will get sorted with the best tuner in your local area...then again, I drive 90 minutes to get mine tuned so local is not always the priority? I read you still had a MAF in your LS1? If your getting you tune 'checked' flick the maf. They are best used as sinkers for deep sea fishing on LS1's. |
I had an issue with my right side back lead a while ago.
But mine was a definate miss not just a lack in power. |
Great news and glad it is semi sorted..and was not an expensive issue. Why is always the 5 dollar bits that cause the biggest issues...that was a rhetorical question BTW.
I suppose these cars do not come with a nice generic workshop manual that leads you through the fault finding hierarchy. This is good to know as I do like the old school hands on approach. |
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