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Electroplaters - Sydney?
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I've just picked up the knock-off caps from the engraver - Brookes Engraving Unanderra - and with a little more machining of the ears, and polishing, I'll be looking to have them chromed.
Does anyone know if any special technique/material is required to ensure the chrome doesn't flake off when struck with a lead hammer? I actually have a padded three prong gizmo to use at home but if I have to change a tyre on the road I will probably have to give them a whack. Also, any recommendations on an electroplater? Thanks. |
I cant answer questions, but the engraving looks great!
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Peter do you need to use a lead hammer? Why not a leather one like the MG?
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I'm not planning a trailer queen and a bit of patina will be good - but I don't want the chrome flaking off. |
Peter,
I have all my chroming done via Michael at Adept Metal Polishing in Wetherill Park. He gets the polishing right then sends it to the platers- not the cheapest but worth it. Cheers, Ben |
True Peter. There are some high density, lead filled rubber and plastic hammers as well. I used one of those on my original Cobra wheels. The 'ears' on my old MGA were covered in 'patina', however.
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Peter, I refinished the centre locknuts for my wheels in Nickle coating. These were preped and coated and have a near chrome finish however being softer than chrome they have not flaked or chipped at all.
I tighten these with a custom made steel spanner and tighten with a few sharp hits. The electroplater suggested nickle due to its softer finish however still holds a near chrome finish. I have used a metal polish once just for a clean up and they look at good as when they were done a year ago. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/leroy17/side.jpg |
Phil N loaned me his aluminum hex nuts when I put my car through rego. The way my spinners stuck out it would have never got through.
I machined up an aluminum socket for the nuts. The socket is machined so it drives the flats on the nuts rather than the corners and doesn't leave any marks on the wheel nuts even though they are aluminum too. I reckon the nuts are hard anodized hence the greenish/grey color. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...1409socket.JPG The socket has a 4' bar that runs through it and you can stand on the end of it to tighten and loosen them. Sometimes need someone in the car with their foot on the brake to stop the wheel rotating. On the spinners I use a lead mallet and it doesn't seem to leave any marks on the forged aluminum spinners. The mallet face deforms quite a bit on each hit so it's taking the brunt of the damage. Cheers |
There is a thread out here somewhere about different techniques to tighten/loosen spinners. I remember reading one guy carries a length of 1x2 oak and whacks that with his hammer - the wood is much easier on the metal finish. If you don't come up with some tool that you'd carry around, maybe that'd be a solution.
Regards, Kevin |
Have a look at this one.Spear and Jackson - HUCKSON 40MM DEAD BLOW HAMMER It has some sort of nylon heads with lead shot inside. Doesn't mark the alloy spinners at all.
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I chose Michael as I knew they needed a fair amount of polishing to remove the machining marks and I thought a plating place may not have been so fussy about that. I FINALLY have one completed component - just 1000 more to go! |
Glad it worked out well Peter.
Michael does great work! Cheers, Ben |
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